Tag Archives: Yamaha

AG200 parts suppliers.

I get asked a lot about where to get parts for the AG200. Everyone knows that Yamaha parts are expensive in Australia, but so is everything else right? Our strong, unionised workforce and accompanying high minimum wage is the price we pay right? You have to pay to play right? RIGHT?! Lets take a closer look…

OK, so the hard numbers first. A few posts back I did a write-up on a basic, top end rebuild and the parts that are required. As a service to my beloved readers (actually it was for a farmer who reached the “service interval” of his bike! ūüôā ) I went out and purchased these parts from my local Yamaha dealer.

1NU-11181-00       GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD 1  Р$21.51

90430-14131          GASKET  Р$14.10

93211-45471          O-RING  Р$17.35

93210-57634             O-RING x 2  Р$9.00 each

93210-72529           O-RING  Р$14.30

5LB-11351-00         GASKET, CYLINDER Р$8.05

93210-13361           O-RING  Р$1.90

5H0-12119-00        SEAL, VALVE STEM x 2  Р$6.60 each

93210-09165          AA5 O-RING Р$2.60

4BE-15451-03        GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER 1  Р$15.25

93210-14369          O-RING  Р$4.50

93210-32172          O-RING  -$4.15

94580-41104          CHAIN (DID25SH 104L) Р$77.70

4FM-1 2213-00      GASKET, TENSIONER CASE  Р$1.30

15A-11603-00        PISTON RING SET (STD) Р$71.70

93450-17044         CIRCLIP x 2  Р$3.90

So the total for the above parts in Australia for a basic, top-end overhaul for an AG200 comes to $289.51. The same sixteen line items for a 2017 TW200 from Partshark in the US is $164.31US. So if you do the conversion at the time of writing, it comes to $216.89 in AU dollars and then you have to freight it out here. So if the freight is around $50 AU you can see that it pretty much doesn’t add up to get it from the US. I don’t think it is anyway.

Even back in the days not too long ago when the US and AU dollar was close to parity, I was noticing a disturbing trend from the few things I was getting from the US but particularly from a lot of my acquaintances and other Australians that I had contact with on forums. People were getting the wrong parts or even broken ones. Were unscrupulous US companies/parts guys using us as a dumping ground for all their crap parts and products? My experience was yes, yes they were. They knew we wouldn’t send them back, we are not value Nazis like the average US shopper and even if we were, we were not going to wear the freight to send it back over the pond anyway! I wonder how many second-rate or wrong bits ended up on Ebay over here because of this?

I lost interest in ordering a lot of parts direct from the US after noticing all this, while the strengthening of the US dollar and a price reduction on parts from Yamaha Australia helped to close the gap anyway. So my recommendation is to make sure you do the math before you go ordering stuff from the US, it’s not worth it any more in my opinion, not for one-off rebuild parts anyway. If you are going to buy a heap of one part then it may be a different story.

So what do I recommend for us Aussies? Shop around! A lot of dealers did not pass on the Yamaha price reductions from a few years ago so you might find a fair bit of variation for the sake of a few phone calls. Here’s one trick you can try; ask for a price on the good old NGK D8EA spark plug for the AG200. Who ever is cheapest for this simple part will usually be the cheapest for everything. Why? Because most (not all) dealers usually set a margin for their parts in their accounting software that covers all their stock (if they have a computer, I know dealers who still don’t!) so if they are cheapest on this easy to remember, common part then they usually are across their whole stock of bits.

What about after-market bits? The big one in my list above is the cam chain. A good quality DID or RK chain can be had for half the price of the one listed above. The rest…well I have always liked genuine Yamaha parts and as ridiculous as the prices are for for some of the o-rings listed here, not all rubbers are created equal. I get using generic, bearing shop o-rings (I still wont use them though) for the external, easy to replace parts like the rocker covers and top timing gear cover o-rings but the internal ones? Don’t do it unless you are a materials engineer who knows what heat and hydro carbons do to the materials you are going to use!

How about after-market gaskets? Same deal for me, I go with genuine but I’m sure there are good after-market options out there, you just have to troll forums and see what people are using and have had good results with. It is an area that I should look into more and try some variations.

So bottom line for me is shop local. I have been on the other side of the counter and it is a tough gig these days. With the pitiful margins on bikes and with the floor plans the manufacturers impose on their dealers, I wonder how they (particularly the smaller ones) survive. So help them out if you can, ask them for a discount – they can only say no and you may be helping them keep their doors open for your future convenience!

Cheers

AGman

Front mudflap mod.

I know what you’re thinking (again); this guy is getting desperate if he is writing about a mudflap! You‚Äôre right, I am. Not desperate for things to write about (I have over 10 unfinished posts) but I don‚Äôt like posting without photos. Someone once said that they (the photos!) can say a thousand words…can’t remember who it was now…but anyway, I was going through some of my photos and I found these pics so I thought I could write something about that, so here we are.

mudflap curl2What is it about Ag bike mudflaps? You could go surfing on the silly looking things! They are huge and I bet the original designers were thinking mud right (duh!)? But I think the more important thing here is crap…yep, from a cow! I don‚Äôt think there is a more insidious and destructive thing on a farm (weeeell maybe DDT and Dieldrin come close!) than bovine effluent. Problem here is most farmers just leave it where it sticks! That’s OK, they use their bikes as a tool, nothing more. But we as the custodians and/or “discerning” users of the AG200 need to be aware of a few things that might help us with longevity, reliability and general cosmetics of the bike. Work on Ag bikes for a while and you will see that this crud effects everything if left, especially where it accumulates and sits for long periods.

Rubber, aluminium, steel, paintwork and even plastic doesn‚Äôt like it for mudflap curlvery long. So you can either wash your bike after every ride or you can do as much as you can to try and keep it off your equipment. I don‚Äôt know what the exact material used by Yamaha on the front mudflap is, but it’s not immune to damage from cow manure. I’m not 100% sure if it’s manure or heat from the exhaust pipe but the flap tends to curl up and therefore show a narrow path of protection for anything flicked up by the front tyre.

melted mudflapI have noticed in my travels that the bikes I see on dairy farms are the worst where there’s more crud than other farm types and its also common to see melt marks on the back of the flap from the exhaust pipe and/or being pulled in by the tyre. When they curl up bad you can see bad degradation of the rubber material. Another thing that could contribute is the use of highly caustic cleaners on a lot of farms these days. The actual cause is probably irrelevant if you keep your bike clean and the following mod will make the cause moot as well.

If your bike has been on a farm devoid of cattle then there is a good chance this mod will make limited difference, but for me you should still keep an eye on it because it can cause other issues. This mod can be useful no matter what you use your AG200 for. Take your mudflap off and go for a blast up a gravel road and listen for the stones hitting the underside of the engine and the frame rails, especially if you have a new tyre on and more especially again (can I say that?) if you have a nice sticky motocross tyre on, which you should because it’s insurance for an appalling front end!

A lot of crud can get caught up under the engine and stones can damage the paint on the frame rails, the AG200 has no bash plate and the ground clearance is low so the more you can block rubbish from the front wheel, the better your undercarriage will stay. So while I suggest to do this mod if you are just doing jobs around the farm, I suggest that if you have the curl issue and you use your AG200 for other functions to do it as well.

mudflap modEnough waffle…so what’s involved Mr. hot AG200 mods man (sorry, couldn‚Äôt help myself)? First thing…give it a wash will ya! Give it all a bit of a clean up so you can see what you‚Äôre doing. I also suggest you remove the flap assembly so its easier to work on. If the bike is in really bad shape the two fasteners holding the flap on will be corroded and they will break or you will have to cut them off. It’s probably a wise thing to replace these bolts with stainless ones if you ever get the opportunity, they cop a flogging. There also should be a plastic spacer (in the photos and item 5 in the parts list) that helps keep a bit of rigidity to the flap to stop it getting pulled back in by the tyre, make sure you don’t misplace it.

mudflap mod3Now you have all the bits apart, give it another good clean up so you aren‚Äôt working in crud! Take a look at the photos…pretty self explanatory I’d say, not rocket science at all is it? I used an Aluminium strip with a few M3 stainless screws and plenty of anti-seize. You could use anything you want to do the same thing but just try and keep it light – no 3mm RHS with 1″ bolts OK people?! If I was to do it again I would probably use a plastic strip actually, but anywho…

The whole point is to keep the flap at its wide, effective best as it came from mudflap mod2the factory. You might not think it makes much difference but I’m telling you from someone doing 70 to 80kmh up gravel roads with a sticky Dunlop motocross tyre on the front it made a lot of difference. It costs next to nothing to do so if the things I mention above are important to you then I suggest you give it a go.

So there you go, a big hot mod for your AG200! The elephant in the room here is that you could just buy a new mud flap but I wont go there. They only do the same thing eventually anyway so why not just mod the old flap and keep the cool old agbike patina to boot – nice! ūüėÄ

Cheers

AGman

Owner/Operation manuals

I know, I know! These manuals can be downloaded from the Yamaha Australia site. It’s not the easiest thing to use though and is not the easiest thing to find either. So I thought what the hay, lets put them where all the other AG200 info is in the universe! Not only that, but it will be an interesting discussion on what was different in the manuals and therefore it may give you a hint on the changes Yamaha made to the bikes as well.

1983 AG200L – This is the bike that started it all folks. The first AG2001984_mc_ag200_m_mc2968 that came to Australia. There is some debate over the year of¬† ’83 or ’84 as the year of release. Yamaha used to introduce their new model range here a few months before Xmas. For example the “L” YZ motocross models were the ’84 year range but were actually released a month or two before the new year. My guess is the AG200 was the same, a few would of showed up here in late ’83 but most of them got off the boats in ’84. I haven’t seen a ’83 complied AG200 yet but I bet they are out there, or what’s left of them anyway!

1989 AG200W – So what happened between ’83 and ’89? Not much! Change 1989_mc_ag200_m_mc4131of colour was about it by the looks of it. This colour was probably the least liked of the AG200 range. The beige looked daggy real fast and made the seat look pink which was less than manly to the farmers involved at the time!

The manuals pretty much confirm the story as far as changes go. The ’89 manual is two pages longer than the older manual and there is a bit of info at the front making it quite clear that it is illegal to use the bike on public roads…say goodbye to the compliance plate of the old bike. In fact, on page 62 of the ’83 manual it states that the noise output is designed to meet ADR39 which is missing from the ’89 manual so Yamaha defiantly let ADR go on this model.

Starting to move into the nanny-state thinking here where there are more warnings about safety both for maintenance and riding. The fuel cock inspection and cleaning section is missing from the newer (p.33, ’83) bike manual which signifies Yamaha changing this part of the bike. The newer bike had no removable bowl under the fuel tap to catch rubbish.

I notice in the specifications section they take out the 30deg climbing ability in the new manual. Bit subjective was it Yamaha?! The engine is now a 3GX2 not a 3GX…wonder if anything was actually changed? The specifications format is changed around a bit but most of the info is still there and the newer manual has added a wiring diagram at the end. Nice touch.

1990 AG200A – The manual is an extra four pages long, 76 up from 72. Most of it is more brain-dead safety info in the first ten pages or so. Litigation must of been catching up with Yamaha! Not much else to report here except that the ’90 model is a better scan so download this one if your bike is around this era. Engine change in specs. to 3GX3.

1991 AG200B – First impressions are ‘meh’, same amount of pages, must be the same manual? Not so! All the safety rubbish is gone from the front. Cool…oh wait…its after the contents pages now! And they have added a ‘location of warning labels’ diagram…sigh!

This manual has the front fork oil change procedure removed from it so my guess is this is the year Yamaha removed the oil drain screw from the front forks. Strangely, the front headlight adjustment procedure has been removed as well. Engine specs. change again to 3GX4.

1992 AG200D – Same number of pages here again. Front cover is tarted up a bit. On page 41 (of the PDF doc) they have made a few additions to step 2c and 2g of the oil change procedure. Looks like the earlier manual forgot to tell people to put the filter back in! A few pages later they have actually added a tightening torque for the oil pressure check bolt –¬† 7Nm which sounds a bit tight to me. I’d say they have added this because people are breaking them off.

On page 58 they are telling us to now lubricate brake lever pivot points with oil rather than grease. Why? I would always prefer grease than oil, particularly on an AG bike where oil will just get washed out after the first wet ride. The specs. section is all the same again except we have an upgrade to engine type 3GX5.

1993 AG200E РNew manual is one page less. They have removed a page of safety label descriptions from the bike! Nothing else I can see except for the engine upgrade in the spec. section to a  3GX6.

1994 AG200F – Not much going on here. Page 46 gives us a change of info about the spark plug. They cut a heap of technical info out and add a little bit about how to install a spark plug with out a torque wrench. Nice work Yamaha. Once again we get an engine spec upgrade to 3GX7…keep rolling those big upgrades out guys!

1996 AG200FH – You get the feeling something is going to happen now! 1996_mc_ag200_m_mc5750-1They skipped a year and the manual has grown to 83 pages. Time for a colour update too, check it out! This is my preferred scheme of all the AG200s and the picture doesn’t do it justice.¬† Back to the manual…they dropped the imperial measurements from all the specifications throughout, which was a move forward. The description at the front of the manual has been simplified from 22 items to 15. I guess most people don’t need to know where the front fender, the tail-light and fuel tank is!

Interesting on p. 18 of the new manual that they drop the section telling you where the engine number is and tell you about the model label up on the head stem. On the previous page they want you to record the key ID, the VIN and the number on this model label rather than the engine number.

There are quite a few additions to the Periodic Maintenance section. A bit of butt covering at the start (in upper case I might add) with an addition about how maintenance can change depending on individual conditions etc. There is two additions to check in the Periodic Maintenance section; the kick stand and battery.

Here I was eagerly anticipating the introduction of the 3GX8 engine and they dumped it from the engine specs.! They dropped the minimum turning radius too. And the last big addition to report is the conversion table added to the last page.

There was a lot of little changes to this manual but most were irrelevant like extra cautions and stuff like that – lawyer changes!

1998 AG200FK – So this is the big one. Electric start! The manual is pretty 1997_mc_ag200f_m_mc6052much brand new so I wont go into the changes page by page. Its still a crappy old scan though! I will just look at the interesting specs. and other things. Now you might think that the picture at left is the same bike as in the last description but if you have a close look you will see the starter motor at the front of the engine and the larger front wheel and brake drum.

1999_mc_ag200_m_mc6619I do know that ’98 was not the first electric start bike though. I do think it was the first of the blue AG200s but the grey, electric start AG200 came along in ’86 – ’87. I had one so I know they came earlier than the blue bikes.

So what was new? The choke moved from the lower clutch side bar to up next to the ignition key. They still show the old choke in the manual under Controls/Instruments description. The switchgear is all new (they stuffed up the diagram), Electric start (no starter motor in the right or left view under description), 12V electrics with auxiliary plug up on the bars near the choke. Larger headlight, 21″ front wheel and larger front brake.

Because of all the changes there were a lot of new numbers in the specification section at the rear of the manual. Length was up to 2160mm from 2135mm, height was 1155mm, up from 1110mm. Seat height is up 10mm to 830mm, ground clearance up 10mm to 255mm, and weight up to 127kg from 121kg. Other changes occurred to caster angle and trail, obviously a 21″ front rim and an updated 12v electrical system capable of delivering reasonable current for a bike that may have accessories.

A few service things were new too. For the first time Yamaha recommended a 20w50 oil if you had temperatures to suit. I also noted that in the maintenance schedule that washing the oil filter was not even mentioned, you’re expected to replace it. And for the first time that I can remember, they tell us it’s OK to use the grease nipples on the swing-arm pivot!

2002 AG200FR – Here’s one for out Latin America friends! This manual is a biggie, 184 pages. Why so big? because there are two manuals, the first is English the second is Spanish. The English version has all the pictorial bugs mentioned in the ’89 manual fixed and it all seems good.

There is an added page for battery maintenance, the AG200 never had the best charging system and Yamaha are covering themselves again. There are two or three new pages going into more depth on changing globes, both headlight, tail-light and indicator. I find it funny that we are supposed to go back to grease for the stand pivots again! Finally there is an added piece in the specifications section warning against using car engine oils in the AG200’s wet clutch system.

2008 AG200FX(6v & 12V) – The AG200 was introduced around the same time as the first Apple Macintosh computer. So 24 years after the release of the system that revolutionised the the field of desktop publishing, Yamaha (or was it Yamaha Australia?) manages to get an AG200 manual out that is in a native digital format and not some dodgy scan! Way to go Yamaha!

We are back to 90 pages and it is soooo much better than this 1999_mc_ag200_m_mc6759other stuff that Yamaha Australia posts up for us to download. I couldn’t believe it when I saw all the imperial measurements. Yep they’re back! Its interesting because this manual also covers the 6v, non electric start model as well as the 12v version. They revived the old bike right down to the crusty old choke lever under the clutch side controls!

So all those spec. differences mentioned for the ’98 model¬† are all in this one! All in an easy to read, neat format. Nice.

2010 AG200FZ – Lucky last! This manual was a lot bigger than previous downloads and it shows. The quality is excellent.

First time for a very long time that Yamaha changed the introduction. Check out page 25, it the first time I’ve seen Yamaha mention the dual stands! Spark plug torque has gone up 1/2 a Nm to 18! Also a first…a decent index. Yamaha went out with a bang!

That’s it folks, that’s all Yamaha Australia have supplied anyway. I know there was an slightly updated model released in 2014, but Yamaha Australia haven’t posted up the user manual for that yet. When/if they do, I’ll post it up. If anyone out there can help me out with a link then I will get it up on here ASAP.

Cheers

AGman

Front wheel bearings and other horror stories

Let me tell you a story that I think you will find hard to believe. I find it hard to believe. In fact, if I hadn’t seen it with my own eyes, I wouldn’t believe it. I wouldn’t want to believe it anyway. It’s basically a story about low IQ, and motorcycle ownership with a bit thrown in at the end on how to replace front wheel bearings on your AG200!

A few years ago before the end of the naughties, I was helping out at a small, country Yamaha dealership. The owner was between mechanics and I thought I would help out with the spanners for a few months while he managed to track down another victim, errr employee! For the six months or so I was there, I saw mechanical horrors that no technical person should ever have to see. I still have nightmares to this day…

Things that make you incredulous that we are the dominant species on this planet! Things that make you shudder and doubt that humanity even has the right to go on! There will always be one encounter though, one special “Bobby Dazzler” example of how far someone can push the boundaries of neglect and stand out from the crowd, and man is it a special crowd! It’s one of those things that you wont forget until your final days. Unfortunately this experience for me involved an AG200.

The experience in question started as I was labouring away, minding my own business in the workshop when a guy shows up in his 4WD with trailer in tow. Alarm bells went off before I even got a look at the bike because the poor thing was chucked in the back of the trailer with no restraints. Yep, just tossed in on its side! My idiot detector went off instantly and thought he can unload it himself if he is too pathetic to even load a bike up properly (I never was a good long term employee!). A few minutes later he pushes this poor thing into the shop,¬† leaves his name, address etc. and off he went on his merry way mumbling something about “they don’t make ’em like they used too.”

After he drove off I thought I’d have a look at the treasure he left us to repair. I wish I had taken photographs, I really do wish I did. The guy was complaining about front end problems and boy did he have that! The front wheel bearings had collapsed completely to the point where the ball bearings were gone…completely! Now you can forgive someone for¬† a bit of play in their front end but can you imagine the play this thing had? let me tell you how much movement was in the front wheel; it was hitting the forks!

But wait, it doesn’t stop there dear reader. When the bearings collapse in the front wheel of your motorcycle, you’re going to notice it right? You’re going to think; “Oh, better get that looked at, this thing is getting a bit wonky to ride.” But noooo, not this clown! I don’t know how long he rode it like that but it was long enough for the tyre to wear through the fork legs. Yep, through the fork legs! The Aluminium just under the oil and dust seal was removed right back to the slider on both forks, where it had rubbed the chrome off them as well.

Believe me? I wouldn’t. Unless I had seen it myself with my own eyes, I would find it hard to swallow this story¬† if someone had just told me. I should of taken photos but at the time I think my brain was in some sort of paralysis because of what I was actually seeing. I actually took it for a ride and concluded that it could only be worse if the front wheel had actually fallen off. Diabolical was the only word that I think comes close to how that bike rode with the front end like that.

The whole front end was scrap in my books but the owner insisted that he didn’t need brakes (the hub was all mashed up), or the pesky oil in the forks, slap some new bearings in it and he was good to go! The axle, spacers and inner bearing races were a big, corroded blob of destruction and he screamed at the cost of new, genuine replacements, which I thought were a waste on this moron’s bike anyway. Surprisingly, some new bearings actually fitted and stayed put in the hub, we nicked the other bits off a wrecker and off he went, still bitching at the cost of it all!

I always wanted to “out” this guy as the mechanical terrorist that he is, but what would it achieve? He is still destroying farm equipment to this day and will until he’s in a grave. I always thought, and was taught, that farming was a business. So why don’t farmers treat their equipment as part of their bottom line? It has always baffled me but the answer is probably that a lot of farmers, particularly in the past, never had much concept of¬† business anyway. Time has caught up with a lot of them. But I digress…

What’s with the story AGman? I thought this post was about front wheel bearings? Well it is but there’s not a lot involved with front wheel bearing replacement so I thought I’d put that entertaining little ditty in there so you will know how to avoid rubbing holes in your fork legs!

Off you go to the Front wheel removal section of my fork repair tutorial. This will give you an idea on how to get the front wheel off and what you have to do to achieve it. Once you have your wheel off and your stolen milk crate ready, place the wheel on it with the brake side facing down. This bearing is easier to knock out because it doesn’t have to pass as far in a press fit as the non-brake, seal side.

Get yourself a long drift or punch and slide it down the centre of the bearing until it reaches the opposite bearing’s inner race. You need a punch in pretty good condition with a good edge so it will hang up on the bearing. A few good whacks with a hammer and it should come out fine along with the centre spacer. Turn your wheel over and you will have much easier access to the opposite bearing which is a bit harder to move because, as mentioned, it has to pass through about double the material before it will drop out of the hub. You can remove the seal before you knock the bearing out but it doesn’t matter, it will come out with the bearing either way.

This is the rough method of removing the bearings. You can get special tools that expand in the inner race of the bearing and then with a slide hammer, you can remove it. Not everyone has easy access to these tools and they can be expensive. I have heard of people using DynaBolts (concrete or sleeve¬† anchor bolts) to use in bearing removal which is a good idea but may still need a slide hammer if you can’t bash the bolt from the opposite side, which you should be able to do. I will do some experimenting and check it out in an up coming post.

P1020583Back to the job…get yourself a couple of rubber sealed, 6301 bearings. I like SKF and NSK but any of the good bearing brands will do. I also pop the covers off the bearings, flush out the “grease” and replace it with a quality, waterproof substitute. I don’t expect you to do that but if you’re doing big miles on your bike I would defiantly recommend it. While you are at the bearing shop, get yourself a 18x37x7mm seal, they are cheap (as are the 6301 bearings I might add) and you might as well replace it with the bearings.

Installation is pretty simple. Find yourself a useless SAE socketP1020577 (American readers are gnashing teeth!) that matches up to the outer race of the bearing but doesn’t hang up on the hub. You can use this to gently tap the bearings into their P1020580new home. Don’t forget the inner spacer! You should also be able to install the new seal nearly by hand, if you do use persuasion, be gentle. Have a look at the photo of the seal below at right. Make sure it’s not flush with the hub. There is a plastic collar that fits on the axle spacer that slightly overlaps the hub a few mm. This helps to keep rubbish out of the seal and therefore the bearing. The link above showing the wheel removal procedure has some good pics if you need them. If this collar is damaged, it should be replaced for the long term health of everything discussed here.

There we have it, use grease on the seal lips, spacers and axle on P1020587reassembly. Make sure the speedo drive lines up correctly or there will be carnage. Another tip is to get someone to hold the front brake lever firmly to centre the hub while you are tightening the axle nut. We are done! Cheap, easy and no excuses for damaging those fork legs!

Cheers

AGman

AG200 YouTube vids

Because the AG200 is a bit of a…ahem…lowly steed, when you do a YouTube vid search all you will ever find is poor old AGs towards the end of their lives getting abused. Monster burnouts, monster boghole attempts and all sorts of other antics by mostly bored kids. This seems to be the order of the day for AG200s on YouTube. Not that I don’t enjoy a good monster burnout mind you, but the AG200? Pft! Isn’t there anything more interesting that someone is doing on them?

Imagine my surprise when this bobby dazzler popped up! This is what I’m talking about. If this guy ever comes across this blog, drop us a line!

Until some of you other guys get your trips done, documented and up on the ‘Tube, then this guy is the current World AG200 Touring Ninja!

Cheers

AGman

O’ring chains on the AG200. Really?

Some people that have recent history with the AG200 might be surprised to learn that the first model released way back in ’83 – ’84 was supplied with an o’ring chain for the final drive. What?! Why go to all the trouble of designing a fully enclosed final drive system and then add an o’ring chain? Yamaha must of asked themselves the same question because they stopped doing it not long after the original release. What about now? Is it worth the expense to prolong the life of a component that, if maintained correctly, will last for ages? My thoughts on the matter follow…

Chain gaurdI have some dealer friends who swear by putting o’ring chains inside the chain enclosure of any AG200 that passes through their workshop. If you are a belt and suspenders type of person then I guess you would consider this a good idea. On farms that get chopped up by cattle (deep, sloppy mud) during the winter (Dude…get an ATV!), this is probably a good idea. The factory chain enclosure is great when set up right but it’s not perfect. The lower guard has a drain hole at the lower section and if this part fills with mud and the drain hole blocks then you have a factory chain and sprocket destruction device!

An o’ring chain will not enjoy being operated in a bath of corrosive, abrasive slime but it will last way longer than a conventional chain. So in this sort of environment where people tend to not give the bike even a fleeting glance between times when the bike stops running (known by a lot of farmers as the “service interval”), then I would suggest an o’ring chain a wise investment.

Now for the rest of us…I have never bothered with an o’ring chain on my AG200s because I know how much power conventional o’rings can suck out of a small engine. I don’t know about you, but if I have a bike with less (waaaaaaaay less!) than 20 HP out the back wheel then I don’t want to let any of that go! The AG doesn’t have much horsepower to start with so sucking a little bit out with an o’ring chain wont do it any favours. I also believe if you look after the chain guard properly then it will do nearly as much to protect the chain as any o’ring will.

Some of these new, low friction X ring chains might work better for the AG but once again, vigilance and preventive maintenance, in my opinion, will prevent the need. There is no horsepower to stretch the chain, so if you keep it adjusted, lubed and relatively clean, which the factory enclosure will do, then you are safe with a conventional chain. Spend the money you saved on chain lube and live happily ever after!

Cheers

AGman

Oil change tips #2 Changing the oil.

OK…we haven’t got our hands dirty for a while so lets get something techy done –¬† the humble yet often overlooked oil change. Pretty simple really but there are a few little tips here that might work good for you and your AG. As Jamie Oliver says; lets tuck in!

First things first, take your bike out for a good thrash! That’s right, give it the berries! The oil is (or should be!) thick in the AG200 so make sure the oil is nice and hot. I use a procedure here that leans the bike over on both stands for a period of time so the hotter the oil is the longer it will flow well and therefore drain well.

Remve drain capAfter you have set a new land speed record, get the AG into your shed and get it over on the right hand stand. This gives you easy access to the drain plug. Get yourself a 19mm single hex (go and see my discussion on the drain cap here) socket to release the drain cap and place something under the AG to catch the oil. You might have to juggle the gear lever to remove the cap and actually, you can remove the lever if you want because it does make things a lot easier and it’s only one 10mm bolt. If the cap feels like its going to give you pain removing it, give the end of your 19mm socket a firm tap with a hammer while on the cap to help loosen it.

When you get the cap loose and you feel it’s about to pop off, Drain oillean the bike over to the left side stand. Make sure you move the oil drop container to suit. Now you can totally remove the cap, spring and filter gauze and drain out that old Middle Eastern Gold. As the oil is draining on the left hand side, take the opportunity to remove the oil filter cover and the oil filter on the opposite side of the bike.

Filter housing screwsOn later bikes (’98 onwards) you will need to remove theFilter housing2 two top 8mm hex bolts and the lower 5mm Allen bolt. Older bikes use Philips (see at left) on the top two bolts. Remove the cover carefully and pay careful attention to the rubber o’rings under the cap. If they look daggy, replace them. Pull out the filter and have a good look at it, I have discussed in other posts about the filter specifics so if you think it looks dodgy, replace it. If it looks OK give it a wash, remove the metal from it and it’s ready for another service interval.

While the oil is draining and the bike is on the left side stand you might asFilter cove2 well have a good look in the filter housing and give it a bit of a clean out with a rag. Oil would of dribbled down the casing after removing the filter cover anyway so while you have the rag handy you might as well clean out the cavity or filter housing.

Drain capWhen the old oil slows to a drip out of the left side oil drain, lean the bike over to the right hand stand. Make sure you shift the drain container to suit the oil drain. A bit of oil drain might pick up but probably not. The oil is draining internally as you will see later. Take this opportunity to have a good look at the drain cap. Is the o’ring OK? If not replace it. Now give the cap a good clean, remove the o’ring and have a really good look at it. Most people do it up too tight, even Yamaha do it up too tight! It can easily crack around the edges near the o’ring grove. Yamaha specifies 43Nm for it and that, in my humble opinion, is crazy talk! It’s at least 10Nm too tight.

OK, the bike has been over on the right side stand for ten minute or so right? Time to lean it over on the opposite stand. Get ready to move the catch tray, more oil will start to drain. I like to combine the oil drain with a few other maintenance jobs (valve clearances?) so you have the time to go left and right on the two stands for an extended period. If you don’t have the time then fine, a couple of times back and forward will do the trick.

We have all the oil out, now it’s time to reassemble. Your oil filter is new or freshly cleaned so its time to get it back into the filter housing. It can only go in one way so don’t stress. Install the filter cover and tighten up the bolts. Make sure that bottom Allen bolt does not hang up on that small o’ring and damage it. Put a bit of fresh oil on the bolt and the o’ring. The two top bolts are set to 7Nm while the lower Allen bolt is set to 10Nm. Not very tight so those used to hanging off a wrench with a piece of gal. pipe will learn all about Easy Outs and HeliCoils pretty quick!

Drain filter+springLets turn our attention back to the drain cap and its’ related parts. Is the spring and wire filter OK? Not much to go wrong with the spring but make sure there is no rubbish in the filter. Lean the bike back over to the right side and slap them back in the way they came out. I like to put a bit of grease on the alloy mating surfaces of the cap – i.e. the lip outside of the o’ring. You can now screw the drain cap back in and as stated, it doesn’t have to be too tight.

So here comes the biggy – what sort of oil? I have two modes of thought on this issue. If it’s an old bike that’s a bit of a basher and a bit worn and daggy – mineral oil and change often. Newer bike that you want to keep for a long time, do trips on and want it to last and give years of reliable service? Full synthetic. The common ground between them is go heavy. 10W40 minimum, preferably 10W50. You will find the gearbox works much better with a heavier oil. Remember, the AG200 was designed back when consumer synthetic oil was expensive and/or hard to get and the clearances and design has not changed since that time. Also remember, bike oils only, wet clutches dislike car oils and their friction reducing additives.

Oil fillerThe spec from Yamaha is 1.1 Litres with a filter clean/change. Oil fill3Remove the filler plug and use a funnel or a pourer with a tube that fits into the filler hole. Pour your oil in and use the sight glass to get the level right if needed. Screw your filler cap back (clean around the cases and check the o’ring on the cap) and you’re good to go. The paranoid among us can undo the 10mm oil pressure check bolt (circled at right) in the head to make sure there is pressure up there. You don’t have to totally remove it – just loosen it to the last few threads and if there is pressure it will find its way out. Be real gentle doing this check bolt up…5Nm and no more or it will snap off.

So there you go, wasn’t too hard was it? Now get back out there and improve on that land speed record.

Cheers

AGman

AG200 Japanese site.

The Japanese made the AG200 so you would expect them to have a little bit of a fan base right? Well they do. Go and check it out here. You will have to use Google translate to glean anything from the writing, but if you persist you will find a few nuggets, like the 6 speed gearbox on the early Japanese version, and the brochure is cool, wonder if they did an English version…

Cheers

AGman

Parts listings…more AG200 gold!

Welcome to the new year of 2015, hope ’14 was a good one for you. I thought I would start the new year with a bang by posting up the AG200 parts lists. I have most of them but thought I would link to an older model (1988), and a newer model (2003). This will help you bypass the incompetent Yamaha spare parts guy if you are unfortunate enough to have one in your area! Select your part number and supply him/her with it so they cant stuff it up!

Its also interesting sometimes to enter the number in Boats.net’s excellent Yamaha parts listings to see what, if any, other Yamaha models use the same part.

Apart from a few new bits on the current AG (2013 onwards), these two parts lists will cover most parts and their numbers. The ’88 manual has the listings for the earlier yellow bikes and the later beige ones, which is handy if you’re after a specific colour part like side covers, guards or a tank.

Enjoy!

2003 AG200

1988 AG200

Cheers

AGman