Tag Archives: Yamaha parts

AG200 parts suppliers.

I get asked a lot about where to get parts for the AG200. Everyone knows that Yamaha parts are expensive in Australia, but so is everything else right? Our strong, unionised workforce and accompanying high minimum wage is the price we pay right? You have to pay to play right? RIGHT?! Lets take a closer look…

OK, so the hard numbers first. A few posts back I did a write-up on a basic, top end rebuild and the parts that are required. As a service to my beloved readers (actually it was for a farmer who reached the “service interval” of his bike! ūüôā ) I went out and purchased these parts from my local Yamaha dealer.

1NU-11181-00       GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD 1  Р$21.51

90430-14131          GASKET  Р$14.10

93211-45471          O-RING  Р$17.35

93210-57634             O-RING x 2  Р$9.00 each

93210-72529           O-RING  Р$14.30

5LB-11351-00         GASKET, CYLINDER Р$8.05

93210-13361           O-RING  Р$1.90

5H0-12119-00        SEAL, VALVE STEM x 2  Р$6.60 each

93210-09165          AA5 O-RING Р$2.60

4BE-15451-03        GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER 1  Р$15.25

93210-14369          O-RING  Р$4.50

93210-32172          O-RING  -$4.15

94580-41104          CHAIN (DID25SH 104L) Р$77.70

4FM-1 2213-00      GASKET, TENSIONER CASE  Р$1.30

15A-11603-00        PISTON RING SET (STD) Р$71.70

93450-17044         CIRCLIP x 2  Р$3.90

So the total for the above parts in Australia for a basic, top-end overhaul for an AG200 comes to $289.51. The same sixteen line items for a 2017 TW200 from Partshark in the US is $164.31US. So if you do the conversion at the time of writing, it comes to $216.89 in AU dollars and then you have to freight it out here. So if the freight is around $50 AU you can see that it pretty much doesn’t add up to get it from the US. I don’t think it is anyway.

Even back in the days not too long ago when the US and AU dollar was close to parity, I was noticing a disturbing trend from the few things I was getting from the US but particularly from a lot of my acquaintances and other Australians that I had contact with on forums. People were getting the wrong parts or even broken ones. Were unscrupulous US companies/parts guys using us as a dumping ground for all their crap parts and products? My experience was yes, yes they were. They knew we wouldn’t send them back, we are not value Nazis like the average US shopper and even if we were, we were not going to wear the freight to send it back over the pond anyway! I wonder how many second-rate or wrong bits ended up on Ebay over here because of this?

I lost interest in ordering a lot of parts direct from the US after noticing all this, while the strengthening of the US dollar and a price reduction on parts from Yamaha Australia helped to close the gap anyway. So my recommendation is to make sure you do the math before you go ordering stuff from the US, it’s not worth it any more in my opinion, not for one-off rebuild parts anyway. If you are going to buy a heap of one part then it may be a different story.

So what do I recommend for us Aussies? Shop around! A lot of dealers did not pass on the Yamaha price reductions from a few years ago so you might find a fair bit of variation for the sake of a few phone calls. Here’s one trick you can try; ask for a price on the good old NGK D8EA spark plug for the AG200. Who ever is cheapest for this simple part will usually be the cheapest for everything. Why? Because most (not all) dealers usually set a margin for their parts in their accounting software that covers all their stock (if they have a computer, I know dealers who still don’t!) so if they are cheapest on this easy to remember, common part then they usually are across their whole stock of bits.

What about after-market bits? The big one in my list above is the cam chain. A good quality DID or RK chain can be had for half the price of the one listed above. The rest…well I have always liked genuine Yamaha parts and as ridiculous as the prices are for for some of the o-rings listed here, not all rubbers are created equal. I get using generic, bearing shop o-rings (I still wont use them though) for the external, easy to replace parts like the rocker covers and top timing gear cover o-rings but the internal ones? Don’t do it unless you are a materials engineer who knows what heat and hydro carbons do to the materials you are going to use!

How about after-market gaskets? Same deal for me, I go with genuine but I’m sure there are good after-market options out there, you just have to troll forums and see what people are using and have had good results with. It is an area that I should look into more and try some variations.

So bottom line for me is shop local. I have been on the other side of the counter and it is a tough gig these days. With the pitiful margins on bikes and with the floor plans the manufacturers impose on their dealers, I wonder how they (particularly the smaller ones) survive. So help them out if you can, ask them for a discount – they can only say no and you may be helping them keep their doors open for your future convenience!

Cheers

AGman

A standard top-end rebuild kit.

Greetings for the new year folks, hope you all had a good festive break and the new year is a big one for you…even if we are 3 months into it already!

I thought we would start the year off with a bit of a tip for your basic AG200 overhaul. I say “basic” because there is really nothing too bad going on here. When I had a shed full of these things and old trade-ins and barn-finds seemed to follow me home weekly (daily?!), this was my standard engine overhaul kit that I used to keep in stock.

I found that the AG200s lasted somewhere between 15000 to 20000kms with zero maintenance. And 80% of the AGs I fixed that were from farms pretty much had zero maintenance. Oh, they might of had the free first service but after that – nothing. They would ride it until it self destructed! So what I have listed here is the standard top-end rebuild kit that you would have to put through the engine when it got to this point.

Now you might look at the list I have down below and say WTF! Why so many bits AGman? Well, you have to put things into context. It may be hard for someone coming from a different background to get their head around everything I have listed here, I get it. But we are not talking about an engine that has had periodic servicing done here…its had NOTHING for 20000km. And not normal 20000kms either. No airfilter cleaning, probably a clogged oil filter that at least has restricted oil flow. No cleaning so there is probably baked mud in the cylinder/head cooling fins…its a train wreck!

Here is the thing you need to remember most; anything rubber must be replaced. The biggest issue with leaving oil in an engine for this long is that it turns into an evil destructive sludge. If the inner cases look like they have been painted in varnish then the oil has been in for way too long and the chemicals that build up in it destroys rubber and I suspect doesn’t do a whole lot of good for gaskets either.

As for the parts themselves, you can get after-market gasket kits but I have never really liked them. I prefer the Yamaha originals. The timing chain can be sourced after-market, RK is a good brand. Everything else I would go with Yamaha. Lets have a look…

From this exploded view we will require part 6, 8, 13, and 2×17.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From this view we will need 2, 3 and 4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From below –¬† 2×6 and 12.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From below – 2, 7 and 9.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From below – 7 and 11.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And finally, from below – 9 and maybe 2×11 (see text).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To sum up:

1NU-11181-00       GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD 1

90430-14131          GASKET

93211-45471          O-RING

93210-57634           O-RING x 2

93210-72529           O-RING

5LB-11351-00         GASKET, CYLINDER

93210-13361           O-RING

5H0-12119-00        SEAL, VALVE STEM x 2

93210-09165          AA5 O-RING

4BE-15451-03        GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER 1

93210-14369          O-RING

93210-32172          O-RING

94580-41104          CHAIN (DID25SH 104L)

4FM-1 2213-00      GASKET, TENSIONER CASE

15A-11603-00        PISTON RING SET (STD)

93450-17044         CIRCLIP x 2 (if you need to remove the piston to clean it)

There are assumptions and additions here; The two valve guide seals are needed because most AGs at this stage have been pretty fumy and there will be lots of carbon in the combustion chamber and the exhaust port. you really should pull the valves out to help with this clean-up and inspect the valve faces. I would strongly recommend a grind to clean up the faces – they will probably need it. So if the valves come out, you will need the valve guide seals.

I have covered mostly consumables here. There are lots of parts that need to be checked as well; are the cam chain tension guides going brittle? How does the cam look? Rockers? Valve clearance adjusting screws? Valves? Was the base gasket leaking? How do the cases look where they join up at the cylinder base?¬† Lots to cover in a later tutorial…

The rubber parts that go in between the cylinder/base and cylinder/head are critical. Re-use the old ones at your peril! Take a look at the three radial seals on the engine as well – counter-shaft, gearlever and kickstart. If one is weeping replace them all because they will be going hard and failing soon.

Don’t be tempted to replace the o-rings listed here with generic bearing shop stuff – all rubber is not created equal. These need to resist oil and elevated heat. Unless you know where to source these o-rings from, go with Yamaha.

Obviously the part number of the piston rings will depend on the oversize of your engine but I doubt anyone would bother boring an AG200 up to the next oversize. If the piston and cylinder is worn out on one of these bikes then the rest of it will be rubble! Check anyway, and while you are there measure, or get someone with the equipment to measure your piston and cylinder to see if they are within specs.

Hopefully I will be able to do a tutorial this year to show the fitment and little tips and tricks of putting all these bits together. Don’t hold your breath though! ūüôā

Cheers

AGman

AG200 brake shoes

If you asked me if there was one (there are many!) good reason why to choose the later, electric start AG200s, then it would be because of the larger front wheel and brake. The advantages of the 21″ front wheel won’t be discussed here but the larger front brake and the brake shoe options will be the topic for this post.

Tell me a motorcycle that has a smaller front brake than the back? No idea? Well I can tell you one – the early, 6V, non-electric start AG200. What a gooba of an idea! The wheel and brakes were lifted directly off the AG100 two stroke which in itself was under braked! The shoes were a tiny 110.0 x 25.0mm. One word comes to mind; “inadequate”! It’s one of the few brakes I’ve used on a motorcycle were when you use them you want to put your feet down to give them a hand!

This poor excuse for a brake was used for over ten years by Yamaha on the AG200 until around 1997 when they decided to upgrade the front end with the larger wheel and brake. We now had a whopping 130.0 x 28.0mm brake, we finally caught up with the rear as it has the same dimensions!

So if the dimensions are the same you would think the shoes would be the same right? Well they aren’t, they couldn’t get this right either! But I will excuse Yamaha for this engineering oversight because the front wheel came later and they couldn’t foresee the issues that arouse. Even though the shoes have the same dimensions, the rear units have too much meat on the inside casting to clear the speedo drive housing on the front backing plate. So even though the shoes should fit, they don’t. Two separate part numbers.

AG200 brake shoesCheck out the photo; The front shoes are on the left, the front, pre-electric leg AG200 is in the middle and the rear is on the right. Notice the front has less material in the alloy casting to clear the speedo drive? And you can see that there is a significant upgrade from the old front brake to the new one.

But hang on…if the back don’t fit in the front, do the fronts fit in the back? Do we only need one set of shoes for the AG200? Yes we do. The brakes on the left hand side also fit in the back just fine so we only really need this set of shoes for either end of the bike.

Now that we know what fits we can order a set from our friendly Yamaha dealer right? No…no we can’t/shouldn’t! I won’t even bother listing the Yamaha part number because the last time I went to a dealer I got quoted $75 for a set. This really is crap! And the dealer may not be the one blamed here, he is just trying to make a living (I hope). This is what happens when an importer/national distributor gets greedy. Setting a price that the market will bare rather than what is fair and reasonable. But that’s another blog…

So by all means, give your local dealer a call. Just make sure you’re sitting down when he gives you a price! I feel that no more than $30 should pull it up and you can get them cheaper again if you are prepared to dig a bit deeper. If you want a name brand, after-market set of shoes like Ferodo (FSB733), EBC (506) or SBS (SBS2034) then around the $30 should be about right.

Searching for after-market stuff for the AG can be a minefield because most of the after-market stuff is manufactured for the high volume markets that just happened to not have the AG200 on their model books (like the US). What can also make it difficult is that some higher selling volume countries did get the AG200 but only for a year or two (like the UK). This means they may have a listing but it would only be for the earlier bike, with the smaller brakes discussed above.

Luckily, Yamaha were well known for sharing a lot of consumable parts between models. This helps us to find bits for the AG without getting hammered by Yamaha Australia , who think we are all morons and will just pay up. Come on guys…I can buy Chinese shoes in one-off purchases to suit the AG200, out of the USA for $13. The AG200 is a 30 year old design and this part number goes back even further. My guess is it cost Yamaha $5US to get these things made and they pass them on to us for $75…is that fair? Like I said…its another blog!

Anyway, I need to get off my soap-box and give you some useful information. Download the Ferodo PDF listing here and check out page 382. You are looking for part number FSB733. This will give you Yamaha equivalent numbers and other manufacturer cross reference. Page 154 will give you the fitments from other Yamaha models and even other manufacturers. This may help if you want to keep an eye out and gamble on buying some old genuine stock that might be going cheap on Ebay or some other location.

I’m getting hints that Ferodo’s part FSB947 is also a replacement for the AG. Page 486 of the catalogue if you want to check it out but I haven’t tried them yet so can’t guarantee their fitment. Will update here when I find out. What I do know is that the FSB733 does fit and I am using them in AG200s now.

Of course the other manufacturers list in this Ferodo catalogue have their listings and information too so there are other potential information sources as well but from the ones I have looked at so far, I have found the Ferodo one the most informative and helpful to date. I will keep up the hunt and if I find something more useful to the AG owner in the future I will make sure to post it up.

There is the other reason I have gone with Ferodo; I can get them, they are a reasonable price, I have used them and they work well. I will be keeping an eye out for any other option though and will update when I get more info.

Cheers

AGman