Tag Archives: 3GX

Owner/Operation manuals

I know, I know! These manuals can be downloaded from the Yamaha Australia site. It’s not the easiest thing to use though and is not the easiest thing to find either. So I thought what the hay, lets put them where all the other AG200 info is in the universe! Not only that, but it will be an interesting discussion on what was different in the manuals and therefore it may give you a hint on the changes Yamaha made to the bikes as well.

1983 AG200L – This is the bike that started it all folks. The first AG2001984_mc_ag200_m_mc2968 that came to Australia. There is some debate over the year of  ’83 or ’84 as the year of release. Yamaha used to introduce their new model range here a few months before Xmas. For example the “L” YZ motocross models were the ’84 year range but were actually released a month or two before the new year. My guess is the AG200 was the same, a few would of showed up here in late ’83 but most of them got off the boats in ’84. I haven’t seen a ’83 complied AG200 yet but I bet they are out there, or what’s left of them anyway!

1989 AG200W – So what happened between ’83 and ’89? Not much! Change 1989_mc_ag200_m_mc4131of colour was about it by the looks of it. This colour was probably the least liked of the AG200 range. The beige looked daggy real fast and made the seat look pink which was less than manly to the farmers involved at the time!

The manuals pretty much confirm the story as far as changes go. The ’89 manual is two pages longer than the older manual and there is a bit of info at the front making it quite clear that it is illegal to use the bike on public roads…say goodbye to the compliance plate of the old bike. In fact, on page 62 of the ’83 manual it states that the noise output is designed to meet ADR39 which is missing from the ’89 manual so Yamaha defiantly let ADR go on this model.

Starting to move into the nanny-state thinking here where there are more warnings about safety both for maintenance and riding. The fuel cock inspection and cleaning section is missing from the newer (p.33, ’83) bike manual which signifies Yamaha changing this part of the bike. The newer bike had no removable bowl under the fuel tap to catch rubbish.

I notice in the specifications section they take out the 30deg climbing ability in the new manual. Bit subjective was it Yamaha?! The engine is now a 3GX2 not a 3GX…wonder if anything was actually changed? The specifications format is changed around a bit but most of the info is still there and the newer manual has added a wiring diagram at the end. Nice touch.

1990 AG200A – The manual is an extra four pages long, 76 up from 72. Most of it is more brain-dead safety info in the first ten pages or so. Litigation must of been catching up with Yamaha! Not much else to report here except that the ’90 model is a better scan so download this one if your bike is around this era. Engine change in specs. to 3GX3.

1991 AG200B – First impressions are ‘meh’, same amount of pages, must be the same manual? Not so! All the safety rubbish is gone from the front. Cool…oh wait…its after the contents pages now! And they have added a ‘location of warning labels’ diagram…sigh!

This manual has the front fork oil change procedure removed from it so my guess is this is the year Yamaha removed the oil drain screw from the front forks. Strangely, the front headlight adjustment procedure has been removed as well. Engine specs. change again to 3GX4.

1992 AG200D – Same number of pages here again. Front cover is tarted up a bit. On page 41 (of the PDF doc) they have made a few additions to step 2c and 2g of the oil change procedure. Looks like the earlier manual forgot to tell people to put the filter back in! A few pages later they have actually added a tightening torque for the oil pressure check bolt –  7Nm which sounds a bit tight to me. I’d say they have added this because people are breaking them off.

On page 58 they are telling us to now lubricate brake lever pivot points with oil rather than grease. Why? I would always prefer grease than oil, particularly on an AG bike where oil will just get washed out after the first wet ride. The specs. section is all the same again except we have an upgrade to engine type 3GX5.

1993 AG200E – New manual is one page less. They have removed a page of safety label descriptions from the bike! Nothing else I can see except for the engine upgrade in the spec. section to a  3GX6.

1994 AG200F – Not much going on here. Page 46 gives us a change of info about the spark plug. They cut a heap of technical info out and add a little bit about how to install a spark plug with out a torque wrench. Nice work Yamaha. Once again we get an engine spec upgrade to 3GX7…keep rolling those big upgrades out guys!

1996 AG200FH – You get the feeling something is going to happen now! 1996_mc_ag200_m_mc5750-1They skipped a year and the manual has grown to 83 pages. Time for a colour update too, check it out! This is my preferred scheme of all the AG200s and the picture doesn’t do it justice.  Back to the manual…they dropped the imperial measurements from all the specifications throughout, which was a move forward. The description at the front of the manual has been simplified from 22 items to 15. I guess most people don’t need to know where the front fender, the tail-light and fuel tank is!

Interesting on p. 18 of the new manual that they drop the section telling you where the engine number is and tell you about the model label up on the head stem. On the previous page they want you to record the key ID, the VIN and the number on this model label rather than the engine number.

There are quite a few additions to the Periodic Maintenance section. A bit of butt covering at the start (in upper case I might add) with an addition about how maintenance can change depending on individual conditions etc. There is two additions to check in the Periodic Maintenance section; the kick stand and battery.

Here I was eagerly anticipating the introduction of the 3GX8 engine and they dumped it from the engine specs.! They dropped the minimum turning radius too. And the last big addition to report is the conversion table added to the last page.

There was a lot of little changes to this manual but most were irrelevant like extra cautions and stuff like that – lawyer changes!

1998 AG200FK – So this is the big one. Electric start! The manual is pretty 1997_mc_ag200f_m_mc6052much brand new so I wont go into the changes page by page. Its still a crappy old scan though! I will just look at the interesting specs. and other things. Now you might think that the picture at left is the same bike as in the last description but if you have a close look you will see the starter motor at the front of the engine and the larger front wheel and brake drum.

1999_mc_ag200_m_mc6619I do know that ’98 was not the first electric start bike though. I do think it was the first of the blue AG200s but the grey, electric start AG200 came along in ’86 – ’87. I had one so I know they came earlier than the blue bikes.

So what was new? The choke moved from the lower clutch side bar to up next to the ignition key. They still show the old choke in the manual under Controls/Instruments description. The switchgear is all new (they stuffed up the diagram), Electric start (no starter motor in the right or left view under description), 12V electrics with auxiliary plug up on the bars near the choke. Larger headlight, 21″ front wheel and larger front brake.

Because of all the changes there were a lot of new numbers in the specification section at the rear of the manual. Length was up to 2160mm from 2135mm, height was 1155mm, up from 1110mm. Seat height is up 10mm to 830mm, ground clearance up 10mm to 255mm, and weight up to 127kg from 121kg. Other changes occurred to caster angle and trail, obviously a 21″ front rim and an updated 12v electrical system capable of delivering reasonable current for a bike that may have accessories.

A few service things were new too. For the first time Yamaha recommended a 20w50 oil if you had temperatures to suit. I also noted that in the maintenance schedule that washing the oil filter was not even mentioned, you’re expected to replace it. And for the first time that I can remember, they tell us it’s OK to use the grease nipples on the swing-arm pivot!

2002 AG200FR – Here’s one for out Latin America friends! This manual is a biggie, 184 pages. Why so big? because there are two manuals, the first is English the second is Spanish. The English version has all the pictorial bugs mentioned in the ’89 manual fixed and it all seems good.

There is an added page for battery maintenance, the AG200 never had the best charging system and Yamaha are covering themselves again. There are two or three new pages going into more depth on changing globes, both headlight, tail-light and indicator. I find it funny that we are supposed to go back to grease for the stand pivots again! Finally there is an added piece in the specifications section warning against using car engine oils in the AG200’s wet clutch system.

2008 AG200FX(6v & 12V) – The AG200 was introduced around the same time as the first Apple Macintosh computer. So 24 years after the release of the system that revolutionised the the field of desktop publishing, Yamaha (or was it Yamaha Australia?) manages to get an AG200 manual out that is in a native digital format and not some dodgy scan! Way to go Yamaha!

We are back to 90 pages and it is soooo much better than this 1999_mc_ag200_m_mc6759other stuff that Yamaha Australia posts up for us to download. I couldn’t believe it when I saw all the imperial measurements. Yep they’re back! Its interesting because this manual also covers the 6v, non electric start model as well as the 12v version. They revived the old bike right down to the crusty old choke lever under the clutch side controls!

So all those spec. differences mentioned for the ’98 model  are all in this one! All in an easy to read, neat format. Nice.

2010 AG200FZ – Lucky last! This manual was a lot bigger than previous downloads and it shows. The quality is excellent.

First time for a very long time that Yamaha changed the introduction. Check out page 25, it the first time I’ve seen Yamaha mention the dual stands! Spark plug torque has gone up 1/2 a Nm to 18! Also a first…a decent index. Yamaha went out with a bang!

That’s it folks, that’s all Yamaha Australia have supplied anyway. I know there was an slightly updated model released in 2014, but Yamaha Australia haven’t posted up the user manual for that yet. When/if they do, I’ll post it up. If anyone out there can help me out with a link then I will get it up on here ASAP.

Cheers

AGman

Rego options.

Here in Australia we have a few options to legally ride our AG200 off private property. If you get caught riding an unregistered AG (or any bike) on public roads, state forest or any other place not deemed private property, the fines are steep. No registration means no insurance and in an increasingly litigious country, no rego is becoming frowned upon and people are getting stomped on hard when caught. Here is how you stay within the law on an AG200 in Victoria, Australia. I’m guessing there is not much difference in other states.

Full road registration: Ever wondered why the Honda postie is so popular here in OZ? Why do silly, grown men and their mates go away on silly, boozy trips and travel huge distances? I can give two reasons. One is shown here. As of the date of this post, the rego for an AG200 is $463.40 and that is just for renewal, add quite a bit more to rego one from scratch. The postie is around $100 cheaper to get on the road than the AG200 while the second of the reasons I alluded to above is compliance.

There are issues with most AG200s in Australia. To get full registration to legally ride anywhere in the country, the bike needs to have what we call compliance. Before the manufacturers are allowed to sell a vehicle for use on our roads, it has to go through a comprehensive test so that it complies with our rules.

Get out there and ride!
Get out there and ride!

Early iterations of the AG200 all had this “compliance plate” riveted to the head stem but as time went on and registration options (see below) became available, Yamaha imported a version that didn’t have compliance to ride on Australian roads. As farmers were the largest buyer and they rarely left the boundary of their property and when they did they had this new (cheaper) option of Farm reg., then they started to move away from the dearer complied version.

So yes, that means that Yamaha sold two versions of the AG200 for quite a while. A complied one and a non-complied one. Not many bought the complied one because they were dearer by a few hundred dollars and that’s why a fully complied, late model AG200 is quite rare.

Farm Registration: Is probably not much use to most readers. You have to be a primary producer, no built up areas and venture no more than 25kms from your farm. Pretty limited really, but if you are a cocky and don’t stray too far from home then this would be a viable option. A lot cheaper than full rego too but I didn’t quiz Vicroads on the exact rates.

Club Registration: This is another option which is barely worth mentioning but here we are. If you can prove you are a member of a relevant club(!) and your vehicle is 25 years old from the time you apply for the permit then you have transport! Well, not really. There are restrictions on this option that may make it unviable for your use.

Recreational Registration: This is the option that I use to date. You can only use the motorcycle away from built up areas and on secondary roads. No load carrying which is a bit of a bummer though. With the carrying capacity of the AG it seems a shame not to be able to use it and go away for multi-day rides but unfortunately it’s a no no under this rego option. The main advantage (other than cost) of this is that your bike does not have to be fully complied for road use in Australia. So even though you are limited to what you can do in comparison to full registration, you can get out there and do most things.

So in general, to get around all the rego restrictions you will have to drop the coin for the full rego assuming you can find a fully complied AG200. I might have an alternative to this complied bike issue though, so watch out for an up-coming post on how to get an AG200 fully complied on the cheap.

It won’t change the fact that you will still have to drop a significant amount of money on the yearly registration fee that may be more than the bike is worth! How much do you value your AG adventures? I’m trying to get my head around this one as we speak so we will have to work this out together. *group hug*

Of course, if you don’t live in Victoria your laws will be different but not by much I would imagine. Anyway, go and check out the relevant agencies in your state for more info.

Victoria, New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia, Tasmania, West Australia, Australian Capital Territory, Northern Territory,

Cheers

AGman

Fork servicing, part 2 – disassembly.

Welcome to part 2! This is the nitty gritty of AG200 fork servicing. It’s the bit where you have to have your wits about you because if you rush it, you can easily stuff it up! We don’t want that so PAY ATTENTION! I don’t want you turning a perfectly good set of forks into an oil pump! Seriously, its not that difficult and I will explain why I do the things I do and why you need to pay attention in certain areas that could end in tears if you don’t.

So what tools will we need? 6mm Allen key, the 19mm hex/Allen key special tool we discussed in part 1 (and a T handle and extension if things don’t work out), tyre lever, pick or something pointy, a wire brush, a sturdy bench vice with protective jaws make it all a lot easier too. In fact I can’t imagine doing this job without it. Facilities to give all the fork components a good clean up is nice – a parts washer is perfect but a bucket with some solvent and a stiff brush will do the job too. A can of carby or brake cleaner comes in real handy as will a lot of rags.

Damper rod boltOK, first thing to do is place the outer tube in the vice horizontally and give the bottom of the fork leg a jolly good clean up. Grab your pick or other fine tool and clean all the crud out of the 6mm Allen bolt (damper rod bolt) at the bottom of the leg. Make sure you clean all the crud you can between the circumference of the bolt and the outer tube, compressed air is good if you have it at hand. If there is a lot corrosion on the bottom of the aluminium outer tube then you may need to hit it with a wire brush and some CRC/WD.

You can now stick your 6mm Allen key into the damper rod bolt and try and release it. IfDamper rod release you have been watching YouTube videos on dismantling conventional forks, you will know that there may now be some issues. Once the damper rod bolt comes loose, it may just turn the whole damper rod assembly inside the fork leg preventing it from unscrewing. So what do we do now? Well the manual says we can use the special damper rod holder tool to hold the damper rod but I just compress the fork leg a bit (see pic below) and the spring will put more pressure on the damper rod and hold it while you undo the bolt.

Damper rod hold2For me this works nine times out of ten. For the other times is when you will need the special 19mm tool with a 1/2″ extension and slide it down (after removing the cap, draining the oil, removing the spring and spacers) the inner tube to hold the damper rod. I find that if a fork is in really bad condition, there will have been water in the tube for a very long time and the damper rod components will have rusted and will need some extra love to get them all apart.

Damper bolt removeSo assuming the damper rod bolt came out OK, you should turn it so you can undo it with your fingers but not all the way out. Remove the fork from the vice and place the fork over a container and remove the bolt, watch out for the copper washer under the bolt. Have plenty of rags on hand in-case they are needed. After the initial oil has drained, slowly pump the fork to remove as much oil as possible.oil drain Be aware that the fork will now separate so be really careful when extending the inner and outer tubes apart, especially if you don’t plan to replace the seals.

When you think the majority of the oil has drained you can now gently separate the two fork components. It’s probably best if you do this procedure back in the vice with the outer leg mounted horizontally, be gentle with the seals if you aren’t replacing them. The outer tube is in the vice and the inner tube will look like at left.Inner tube If watching the above mentioned YouTube vids, you would of looked on in horror as people use their lovely front suspension components as a slide hammer, bashing them apart! Well luckily you don’t have to do this with the AG200 fork because there is no inner tube bush to hang up on the outer tube bush as they come apart.

Remove fork capNow we have two separate components. Put the outer tube aside (beware the damper rod collet or oil lock piece – see below) and we can divert our attention to the inner tube. Undo the top cap (you did loosen it per the instructions in part 1 right?) of the inner tube and remove the spacer, washer and spring. Keep some rags handy as you remove these components because there will usually be some oil left in the inner tube. The damper rod will now be free to slide out the top of the tube as well depending on whether the oil lock piece stayed on the damper rod or stayed in the the outer leg when separated.

Damper rod colletThe photo at left shows the components talked about above. 1 is the inner tube. 2 Shows where the inner tube bush usually goes on conventional forks! 3 is the damper rod and 4 is the pesky collet that can get corroded.

I find if the forks had water in them and there was a bit of corrosion, the collet may stick to the damper rod and might need a bit of persuasion to come off. Once free from the damper rod you can turn the whole inner tube upside down and the rod and the small rebound spring should slide out of the tube. AllAll components these inner tube component need to be thoroughly cleaned and any corrosion removed. Pay attention to the thread on the inner tube where the cap screws in. Make sure any corrosion leading up to the threads is removed with wet & dry.

Now lets turn our attention back to the outer tube. Give it a bit of a scrub up but there is no need to get too fussy because there is still work to be done here. I prefer to do all the work on the seals while the two tubes are separated. Why? Because nothing will go near the delicate chrome surface of the inner tube if you work this way. If you fumble removing the dust seal or retaining clip and gouge the chrome on the inner tube, then you have stuffed it! It will never stop leaking oil or it will damage new seals that you will install. Even if you put it all back together and it works OK you have created an area for corrosion to set in. Get the two tubes apart and away from each other and this wont be a problem.

Another reason why I do the fork seals the way I do is because 80% of AG200s I have seen have rust and pits on the chrome fork leg between the upper and lower headstem clamps. So if you do the seals like they show you on the Youtube videos, you will have to slide the new oil and dust seal down over all this dodgy chrome. In the next part I show you how to clean up the legs but damaged chrome is damaged chrome. It WILL hurt your seals as you slide them down over this damage. If the AG200 forks had an inner tube bush, my procedure would be harder to pull off but it doesn’t so we are on easy street. The only thing we have to watch is getting the oil seals in even and square. We just need to be more careful when we do this job…but I digress…

Dust sealPlace the outer tube in the vice as low as it will go to reduce the force placed on your bench and vice. Grab your tyre lever and use it to lever out the dust seal. I use a piece of rubber under the lever to protect the top of the outer tube. Your thinking why use a tyre lever right? Why not just use a screwdriver? While removing this top dust seal (which will be easy compared to the oil seal under it) be really careful you don’t scratch the aluminium on the inside of the outer tube. A tyre lever will have less chance of damaging this area as opposed to the sharp corners of a flat screwdriver. It’s probably not so important where the dust seal fits, but it is critical for where the oil seal fits.

Outer tubeUnderneath the dust seal is the oil seal retaining clip. See the pic. at left where 1. is the clip, 2. is the oil seal and 3 is the outer tube bush discussed bellow. I suggest that you leave off purchasing parts for the forks until you have it all apart to see what is actually damaged. If the forks are old and the fork seals have failed then there will probably be dirt and corrosion between the dust seal and the oil seal. If the clip is rusty, replace it.Retaining clip Be careful removing it, place a rag over the top of the tube as you lever it out blind. There are two reasons for this; the first one is obvious; the clip can fly out and take out an eye. The other reason is not so obvious. If the seals have failed and there is oil, dirt and rust in there, the spring can flick back into its slot and not come out but in the process of springing back home it propels rubbish out and into your face. Don’t ask me how I know this!

Oil sealSo the dust seal and the retaining clip is out, now it’s time for the tough one – the oil seal! It’s not that tough really but you just have to be careful not to damage the surface that the seal is pressed into. This part of the fork is under pressure so anywhere the pressure can escape it will. You damage this surface and medium under pressure will escape past the seal. Because it is further in the tube it makes the tyre lever a bit more awkward to do but take your time and it will come out. Removing as much of the crud above the seal will help as well.

Once the oil seal is removed, clean this area to as close to perfection as you can. Use grade #2000 wet and dry paper to clean up the area where the seals press in. Use your pick to clean out the retaining clip groove. Be careful of the bush just (see above) below where the oil seal was, and try not to nick or scratch the anti-friction coating on it. Of course, if the bush is really worn you will need to replace it but surprisingly, it’s quite rare for it to fail.

SludgeTake a good look at the inside of the outer tube and there may be an accumulation of black sludge at the bottom. This is where brake cleaner can come in handy for cleaning this up. Get it as clean as you can and jam a rag down there to clean out the residue. Give the whole outer leg a good clean up and look over, throw away the dust seals and retaining clips if they are damaged but hang onto the old oil seals for now because we will use them to drive in the new seals. Just give them a bit of a clean so you don’t put crud all over your nice new seals and clean components.

So everything should be cleaned and ready to go back together, soooo this ends Part 2. It just got too long! I bet you didn’t think it would be over 3500 words to describe this procedure? Cant wait for the engine rebuild eh? 🙂

Cheers

AGman

AG200L assembly guide

Here’s a little bit more info that I thought I would pass on. It’s the Yamaha dealer assembly manual for the first AG200L. It is still relevant to the new models but the eagle eyed among you will notice the 6 volt battery, the early fuel tap and the split pins used in the axles. I will post up the later manual (if there even is one?) as I come across it.

If you have an AG and the cable routing looks a bit dodgy, you can check this document to see if the cable routing has been done correctly from the dealer – you would be amazed at how many don’t read the manual! All the cable routing info is in the workshop manual that I have already listed anyway, but I still think this doc is cool if you are into these bikes.

Enjoy!

AG200L assembly guide

Cheers

AGman

Latest project – shakedown!

If for some reason you think you need to get yourself a (second hand) AG200, take my advice; If you cant find a road-only ridden bike (who would buy an AG bike for road/street use?), then try and find one that has been used on a dry country farm. If the farm is irrigated then try and make sure its not dairy. Why? Because water and dirt encourages corrosion. Water, dirt and manure encourages destruction! Everything from steel, aluminium, rubber, plastic, paint, plating, anodising…you name it, it suffers under exposure to cow crud! Throw poor maintenance on top of these conditions and you get a money pit.

Project AG1

That’s why the bike shown here caught my eye when I found it at a small country dealer. It was a dry county bike with twenty thousand kms and even though the top end of the motor was tired, it was all complete and in very good condition. Dealers know what their stuff is worth so I paid good money for it but that means I don’t have to spend as much getting it into a good, reliable condition. All the standard things were covered with this bike; Rings, timing chain, swing-arm bushes, and all the other consumable wear items.

So anyway, all the work has been done (back to bare frame clean-up), and now its time to get some heat into it, stir the gearbox around a bit and then head back onto the hoist to drop the oil, inspect the oil filter, re-tension the head bolts and check the valve clearances. Hopefully after this I can do some recreation rego. and we are off to the Victorian High Country.

Cheers

AGman

AG200 toughness

Here in Australia, I’d like to think that, perhaps with the exception of Africa, we have the toughest environment on the planet for motorcycles. Particularly dirt bikes, and then add an extra dimension with farm bikes.

For AG bikes our conditions can be very dusty and hot, throw in farmers who don’t know the definition of the word “maintenance” and you can begin to understand that it can be a very tough test for a machine here in Australia.

A bike will be a pile of rubble in a year or so or it will keep running under diabolical conditions and state of tune. The ones that keep going tend to have a bit of a following and gain a reputation, and as you might of guessed by now, the AG200 comes under this category.

AG200 filters

Take the example shown here. This poor thing began its life ten years ago in Japan. An ’03 electric start version that ended its working days ten years later with the original owner. Check the filters…air, oil and strainer. I’m guessing that if this bike had ANY oil changes in it’s life time it could be counted on one hand!

AG200 oil filter

Its shows how robust the bike is though. How any air got through the filter is beyond me. The oil filter is so clogged that the poor old oil pump had to suck a hole through the gauze to get oil through! Amazing! And the strainer that sits behind the drain cap is deformed from lack of flow as well!

AG200 oil strainer

This treatment usually always ends in the same way; excessive wear enables the timing chain to fling off the gears and the whole show comes to a halt! Sometimes you will get lucky and the valves won’t smash into the piston (don’t ask me how this can happen!), but most of the time there will be valve damage.

AG200 timing chain

Another timing chain can be all that’s needed to get things on the road again but I doubt it will be its only problem after the torture it has endured. It shows the robustness of the engine design. It has few weak areas and they can easily be overcome by routine maintenance. Keep on top of the maintenance and you have an engine that will take you reliably wherever you want to go.

Cheers

AGman

AG200 service information

Maintaining and repairing motorcycles is just as enjoyable for me as riding them…I find it relaxing and satisfying when you know a job is done right. But maintenance and repairs can be frustrating, detrimental to your machine or even dangerous to yourself if you don’t have the required tools and service information. Good tools and service info are two must haves for any work on any bike in my opinion. So I have posted all the relevant data for the AG200 so you can access it to help you out on your AG journey. I will add more info as it becomes available and anyone who thinks I’m short on something just let me know.

1997 3GX – link to the first PDF format manual that I have found. It’s a scan but still very helpful.

3GX ’03 update – link to the updates for ’03.

3GX ’08 update – link to the ’08 updates.

These are manuals related to the Australian models but the rest of the world should be pretty close. They are also not as comprehensive as one might think but I will try and cover some of the discrepancies as time goes on.

Cheers

AGman