About

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So what’s all this about then? A blog relating to the Yamaha AG200 motorcycle? What’s this guy on? Well the naysayers can scoff and make fun of my little obsession here but I feel it’s my job, via this blog, to try and educate, inform and maybe bring a few readers around to my thinking on the tough little bike whose origins stretch back over thirty years. A bike doesn’t stay in production that long without being good at something! So if you’re a naysayer, go away! :)

Now you’re probably thinking that I’m one of those nutters who is stuck in the past and doesn’t want to know about the new stuff. Or perhaps he is too tight to buy something new (let’s face it, in this range, motorcycling isn’t all that expensive!), and hacks away at this old rubbish that he gets for nothing. Well you would be wrong on your presumptions because I do own newer and more specialised bikes. I lust after an HP4 BMW and will own one one day, and as for dirt riding, I have lived through the era of two stroke domination and owned them, rode them and maintained them. I was not blind to the new technology bought into the four stroke world and now own them too. I’m an electronic engineer, to turn your back on technology is not in my nature.

OK so we have got that out of the way, I’m not a tight arse or a Luddite so why the effort and info on an old, cheap bike? If you haven’t worked it out by now, I am consumed by motorcycling. If anything, it’s getting worse for me because as more tech. comes to the field the more (because of my profession) it draws me in. The thing is when you are really into a field of interest, you also understand the roots of it. In this case I’m not talking about the roots of motorcycling in the physical sense, I’m talking about a motorcycle at its basic level; strip away the tech and give me an engine (preferably single cylinder), basic suspension and we are away.

Sometimes I think it’s good to go out into the countryside and smell the roses. All too often we are hanging off a 180HP monster down the main straight of Phillip Island at a track day and the last thing we are thinking about is our relationship with the machine. We feel the rush, the adrenaline and satisfaction of getting a corner or lap right, but not about the basics of what riding means to us. Dirt riding is the same. We are racing mates or the clock. It’s all good fun and I participate in it all, but sometimes I feel the need to step back.

So how about simplicity? A bike that you know that as long as there is fuel in the tank, it will get you home. The experience is not about the bike or how it performs, but where it gets you, and what you can see while you are on that journey.  Slow and reliable! If the focus is not on speed then you will start to notice things like economy, reliability, comfort and carrying capacity. When you are on a lowly bike you are invisible, there is no expectation to perform, and it’s just you and your bike and the experiences it can give you. Is it the ultimate freedom? Is this what we all got into motorcycling for in the first place?

Starting to see where I’m coming from? No? Oh well…let’s see if I can enlighten you…and I welcome you to my site no matter what you ride or even if you don’t ride at all, you may be surprised at what else I’m into that this tough little bike enables me to do.

Enjoy!

AGman

126 thoughts on “About

  1. Hi,

    Karl here from New Zealand. Just bought a used AG200 and it’s in pretty good shape. One problem I’m having is that the front forks are way too hard. Any suggestions for adjusting this or for how to change the oil in the forks?

    Cheers,
    Karl

    1. Hi Karl,

      My next two posts are on Fork maintenance so keep an eye on the site over the next few days – text is done just have to get a few photos together.

      As for your forks, hard is not good. Slide the fork boots up from the bottom and check the condition of the inner tube. Make sure the chrome is OK. Either way you will have to disassemble them and service them I’d say. Not a huge job and hopefully my ‘how to’ posts will help.

      Cheers
      AGman

    2. Hey! My brother has just bought one with the same issue, feels, almost seized.. Hey Agman, I love your work, this ag200 seems to be overfueling badly as well, seems to be puffing out the blacks and sooting the spark plug. Hey I’m from NZ and have an ag175 and 2 other mates have them aswell, I also own a hundy. We do Ag Missions very regularly.

      1. Your forks will be full of water. Pull them to bits and clean them up before they rust up solid! As for the over-fueling, pull the carb out and pull it to bits as well. My blogs on the issues you can have with the carb are all here to read. Pay particular attention to the needle and emulsion tube.
        Good luck and keep on riding!
        Cheers AGman

  2. Hi AGman,
    This is a great site. I understand your not one of those “nutters” stuck in the past, I have been ridding dirt bikes for over 36 years and currently own a Husaberg TE300, TM300 EN, Yamaha WR 200 91 mod IT 175 H and was given a AG 200 .
    I am going to try and restore it to its former glory the bike is complete and running ” amazingly ” its had a really hard life and shows how tough these little buggars are.
    Keep up the great work on the site.
    Cheers
    Ivan

    1. Hi Ivan,

      Thanks for the encouragement, much appreciated. You have a very nice stable of dirt bikes there…nice work! I used to own an IT200S and WR250, wish I still had them…great bikes. Good luck with the AG200 too. Sometimes its hard to get your head around fixing them when they come to you in such bad shape. But they always reward you when you give them the slightest bit of maintenance, they just seem to want to keep running!

      Thanks again and cheers

      AGman

  3. Hi AGman
    Thanks for your great site i will have an AG200 very soon and planning to pull a single wheel trailer for my camping equipment and also will have a passenger any thought on how much the trailer and load can be and where to attach the trailer to the bike is it better to attach to the rear wheel axle or to rear rack .
    Thanks for your great job
    Hamid

    1. Hi Hamid
      Thanks for the comments. Looks like you are planning to pull a bit of weight there! The Trailer is a good idea and I have seen a few variations on the theme on TW forum so you might want to go and have a look around there. I guess the weight to pull would depend on the terrain your planning on traversing. If on normal roads you should be OK taking on a bit, but if your going to head into rough stuff it will probably be trial and error on your part. Just be aware that for full rego (In Australia) for touring you will need a full compliance AG200 (rare), and the standard clutch is not the strongest item either so you might need to beef it up a bit for heavier loads. Sorry I cant help with the trailer mount location. I have no experience with this sort of modification. You’re in uncharted territory my friend…so you will be a bit of a pioneer! Let us know how it all goes. If you search for ‘Trailer’ in the TW200 forums you may find some interesting info.
      Cheers
      AGman

      1. Thanks AGman
        you have done grate job with your site and definitely i will let you know what happen .
        how can I make the clutch strong?
        I live in nicaragua and here there is not much attention to what you do as long as don’t cause any injury.
        Thanks again
        Hamid

        1. Hi Hamid
          You can get heavier clutch springs and better friction plates from Barnett and other businesses in the USA. Look for TW200 parts – they are the same as the AG in regards to the clutch. Only replace them if you have a problem – see how you go, it might be OK. Good to know you have options if there are issues down the track.
          Cheers
          AGman

  4. Hi AGman,

    I am trying to restore a 1975 AG175. Do you have much info on the AG175? Hard to find a repair manual on it or does it share parts with other bikes? If you know of a PDF version it would be appreciated.
    Keep up the great work.

    Steve

    1. Hi Steve
      Good luck with the AG175, they are a great old bike and ’75…that’s going back a bit too! As for a manual, I had a look and don’t have anything in my collection. I do have a friend with a lot of old manuals though so I will see if he has anything and I will get back to you. I’m thinking that they would have to share a lot of parts with an AG100?
      Cheers
      AGman

    2. Hello Agman,
      we have an old beige yammy 200. are the stators the same for all yammy models all the way to 1984-1998? are they hard to find and what sort of price would they be??

      1. Hi Pete
        Yes, there are multiple iterations of the AG200 stator. From 6V to the 12V models and then the 12V models had a few variations. Your bike is probably an older 6v, pre-electric start model which I don’t have a whole lot of experience with. Cant help you with pricing but there are plenty of wreckers out there or you can get them rewound.
        Cheers
        AGman

  5. Gday how much engine oil do these bikes need. I can’t see through the oil windows too foggy. Also I feel fortunate that I have 2 of these 1 of them has the rare I’d tags that are compliance. Not that I’d register it though too much work involved.

    1. Hi there
      Engine oil is 1 Litre for periodic change and 1.3 total. This is what the manual quotes. If you clean out the filter then go for 1.3, if you just drop the oil go for 1.
      Cheers

  6. Hi AGman,

    Can you tell me the valve clearances for a AG200 1985?
    I’m getting it running for a mate and thought I’d check the valves while I’m at it.

    Cheers
    Jeremy

    1. Hi Jeremy
      Valve clearances for the AG is 0.10 ~ 0.14mm for the inlet and 0.16 ~ 0.20mm for the exhaust, measured when the engine is cold. All this info is available in the service manual that you can download from one of my earlier posts. Just click on Service Info at the top of this page.
      Cheers
      AGman

  7. You, AGman, are informative, honest, and produce a fantastic resource. A pity you don’t run the country.

    My old Ag200 chipped a tooth on the kick start drive gear, and on the floppy gear that sits behind the clutch assembly which the kick start drive gear engages with when the kick start is used. It also cracked the cam on the kick start shaft which pulls the decompressor cable.

    I’ll need a clutch cover gasket for my sins too.

    I’m in Perth, any suggestions for a supplier new or wrecked for this sort of thing ?

    Best regards, Johnson

    1. Hi Johnson.
      Thanks for the comments. Being honest instantly excludes me from any form of leadership role in human society so I will stick with my blog and being an informative, useful resource. 🙂
      The early AGs did have an issue with the kick starter area and you are lucky you didn’t crack the clutch cover casing actually, that’s usually common when it turns pear-shaped in this area. What’s your budget to fix? A bloke on Gumtree has bits of an AG200 for sale at the moment, drop him a line and see if he has the bits you’re after. If not, drop me another line and I will keep an eye out for some bits.
      Cheers
      AGman

      1. Hi AGman,

        Sorry to hijack this post, but I saw that you mentioned in the thread that the AG200 is susceptible to cracking the clutch cover casing. Do you know if the AG200 has a compatible engine (TW200) which shares the same cover etc? I’ve just bought an AG200 with a craked clutch case and need to replace it.

        Regards

        Steve

        1. Hi Steve
          The bikes with similar engines are; TW200, TTR230, XT225/250 Serow, XT125/200, BR200. Some of these bikes came with and without the kick starter and the clutch housing may be a bit larger to fit an extra clutch plate but should fit. I wouldn’t bother though…you will find a wrecked AG way before you will find engine parts for these other models. Country shops should have bits hanging around for these bikes. Ring around the wreckers or keep an eye out on the auction sites, bits do come up.
          Cheers
          AGman

  8. Hi Agman, i have a 97 AG 200 that idles fine but will not accelerate, puffs black smoke and finally stops if i continue. Have another bike that i have swapped CDI, coil, new plug, carby dismantled and cleaned,float level and throttle diaghram ok, valves have correct clearance,timing checked, air cleaner clean, no air leak between carby and head, am at a loss. I got the bike from my brothers property, 10,000 KM but had a hard life. The compression also seems good .

    Any help much appreciated.
    Andy

    1. Hi Andy
      Sounds like you have a good one! Have you tried swapping the whole carby out? Not sure if you had a spare. The needle and emulsion tube can wear badly in neglected bikes. When you cleaned the carb did you get the emulsion tube out of the carb body? See my pic of the assembly in an earlier post. All the small holes and the whole tube needs to be spotless for the bike to run correctly. This would be what I check out first.
      Cheers
      AGman

  9. Thanks AG Man. as usual your information was correct, the bike runs much better after swapping carby over.
    Much appreciated

    Kind regards
    Andy Campbell

    1. Hi Andy
      Really? That was a lucky guess! Good luck with the bike and have fun with it.
      Cheers
      AGman

  10. G’day Agman
    My son (13 yr old) and I have inherited a 1989 200(I think.. Stem number is Jya3gx105ka003028). We got it to go after pulling the carby apart but disaster has struck. Broken around kick start input on the alloy cover and oil run out on the ground. V disappointing. Looking for advice. Do you think she’s fixable or should we offer her up as parts? I’ve contacted a few wreckers but no luck sourcing a cover. My son is really keen as this is his first bike. (Mum won’t let us spend money on bike purchases!!)
    Great site thanks.
    Regards. Glenn

    1. Hi Glenn
      Thanks for the comments.
      This is a really common problem with the early AG200. There are a few theories getting around on why this happens but the one I like is this; the first AG200s were kick start only and had a de-compressor fitted to help with starting. You will see the lever down near the kick starter and it went up (via a cable) to another mechanism on the exhaust valve rocker cover. A lot of farmers didn’t maintain the system and the cable eventually seized and broke. The bike was then more difficult to start and would easily backfire while the kick starter was engaged and this was bad news for the starter mechanism and the cases. Yamaha dropped the de-compressor on the later AG200s and for some reason its not as common a problem as earlier on. The specs for the timing advance and compression is the same but they must of changed something. What ever it was it stopped doing it and when the electric start came along, no one used the kick start anyway. Parts for these early AGs are getting harder to find but any AG right up to the modern ones should fit. Keep looking, there are millions of these things out there so a wrecker should come up eventually. Have you considered welding or using epoxy to patch up the case?
      Cheers
      AGman

  11. Thanks AGman.
    We will keep looking. I saw a non going one at a clearing sale about a year ago that went for $50! Ah for hindsight.
    Quite a big piece cracked out so a repair is out of the question. I think we’ll hang on to it for a while. Be great to get her going again as everything else is in pretty good order.
    Will keep looking at your site.
    Cheers
    Glenn

        1. There are a few there, Gippy farmers jumped on the ATV wagon pretty quick so there may not be as many as you think. I will keep an eye out for some bits…is the case all that you need?
          Cheers
          AGman

  12. Yep. As I said the rest is pretty good. Thanks. I’ll keep dropping back here every now and then. Cheers. Glenn

  13. Hi AGman,
    Love your site & AG bikes too! Have a quick question…Can you recommend a website or business to get spare parts for the Ag’s? I am looking for a Piston kit & head gasket kit but struggling to find a suitably priced one…especially the Piston kit!

    Many thanks in advance,

    Simon

    1. Hi Simon
      Thanks for the comments. If you’re looking for parts in Australia for a decent price you wont find them! I get most of my parts from Partshark in the USA. The Yamaha TW200 has the same top end so just order bits for it.
      Cheers
      AGman

  14. Hi AGman. I bought a new 200F. It has running problems. It seems to have a flat spot at the beginning of the throttle where it hesitates and sometimes stalls. I made sure there is no slack in the cable and tied different settings for the mixture screw on top of the carby. It will stall when stopped sometimes and be extremely hard to start. I bought it from a dealer 2 hours away so have been following his advice. Any ideas?

    1. Hi Jenny
      Hard to say without seeing the bike. It’s new you say? Has it been doing it since you got it or just started? You may of put a bit of dirty fuel through it and you might need to clean the carby out. Give it a try and see how it goes. If the bike is new you probably wont need to go to the lengths in my tutorials. Undo the float drain screw and drain the fuel into a clean container and see if there is any rubbish there.
      Cheers

      1. Hi AGman. I have tried to do this but it is so tight the head is in danger of stripping. This screw is angled back towards the frame so hard to get direct pressure on it. With the rubber mounting of the carb making it hard to put pressure on it too. Any tips here?

        1. Hi Jenny
          That’s a tough gig with a new bike! I’d be getting it back to the dealer pronto, but I understand this could be inconvenient. A long screwdriver that fits perfectly is the first thing I reach for when undoing these float bowl drain screws. I also try and support the other side of the carby with my other hand (taking the seat off helps here) so you take pressure off the rubber manifolds and you can really lean into the screw. I know it sounds like you have to do a Mr. Plastic Man impersonation here, but if you can pull it off, you will find it does help getting the screw out.
          When the screw is loose, put something under the bike to catch the fuel and then turn your fuel tap on and let the fuel drain out for a while to try and clear the rubbish. If it still runs bad it’s a carby out fix and I think that’s the responsibility of the dealer. That’s just my opinion.
          Let me know how you get on…
          Regards
          AGman

  15. Again. The bike is brand new. Done this from the start. If it had been in the shop for a while with fuel in carby dried out, could it have become ‘gummy’?

  16. Again. Sorry. Had the bike about 10 days now. Done about 350km. Ridden in hilly country in South Gippsland. Stalling a problem.

  17. Hi Agman,

    Great website, many thanks! Am a happy owner of a Ag200E for about a year now. Got 7500km on the clock (bought it second hand). All running well but it is slow! I know we are not riding a speed demon here but I can barely get 75kph out of it. I just cleaned the air filter and that added 15kph – I was maxing 60kph! Is this normal? I heard it should do 100kph. I am tall (6’4) but not that heavy (90kgs) so that can hardly be it.

    Any suggestions about changing a sprocket?

    Cheers,

    Piter

    1. Hi Piter
      Thanks for the comments. Your AG is definitely slow! Even with standard gearing, with your head down and a bit of wind assistance, 🙂 100kmh is a close thing but you will be doing huge revs!. Up the the front sprocket by a tooth (from the standard gearing) and you will do 100kmh with ease. Check that the gearing is standard, some one may of changed it from the original 14 tooth front, 54 tooth rear. The fact that the air cleaner was that dirty that it was effecting performance is a bit of a worry. I’m wondering if the top end might be a bit tired? A set of rings may perk it up a bit.
      The front sprocket can be changed out without too much drama. Just remove the front sprocket cover, remove the chain link and then the chain and the sprocket will slide off the counter-shaft once the two 10mm hex bolts are removed. The rear sprocket requires the removal of the rear wheel and chain guard assembly. Something I will be covering in a future installment.
      Keep us informed of your progress.
      Cheers
      AGman

  18. Hi Agman,
    Thanks for your replies. Had bike back to dealer. i watched while they worked on it. The first thing he found was the choke was pulling open when the front wheel was turned. This is probably what was stalling it. He rerouted it. Seems to have fixed that. He couldn’t understand why this was happening. He totally dismantled the carby and blew it out. There was no muck in it. I think he raised the float level.
    The farm worker that uses it was still having stalling problems after this. When I got on the bike I found the clutch was dragging a bit. It was stalling when he stopped and left it in gear with the clutch thingy on the lever holding it on. It would idle for a bit then stall. I adjusted the clutch and couldn’t get it to stall.
    The problem we still have is a “nothing spot”, “flat spot” next to idle. On a farm bike this is a problem because you often travel slow and response is delayed.
    Would a different pilot jet or some other adjustment help?

    1. Hi Jenny
      I always get worried when I see bikes assembled incorrectly from the dealer. Dealers pay no/little attention to this process and I think it is one of the most important parts of the customer relationship. As they say, first impressions count and if it’s obvious that your shiny new bike has been slapped together by someone who doesn’t care or is supervised by someone (an apprentice) that doesn’t care, then it doesn’t bode well for future contact. How hard is it to read an assembly manual?
      As for the flat spot, it has to be a fuel delivery issue. Check the routing of the throttle cables, does anything look dodgy when you turn the bars in this respect? How does the air filter look? Hasn’t been over oiled has it?
      The only way you’re really going to confirm the issue is to swap out the carburetor. You also could try adding some chemical to the fuel that helps clean out deposits. Sorry I cant be a bit more specific. Good luck, let us know if you find anything.
      Cheers
      AGman

    1. Hi Mark
      Thanks for the comments. Ahhh the KV…I cut my teeth on the KV100 before AG200s were even on my horizon! The KV250 was a different beast though and I’m not sure if we even got them over here? So sorry, cant help you with the 250 version…I will keep an eye out for any info if I come across it though.
      Cheers
      AGman

      1. Thanks Agman – Australia was indeed one the few places that ever got the early/mid 80’s KV250. Saying that, they are an extremely tricky beast to find information on. Obviously it’s successor (Stockman) is easy, but has changed a fair bit over the decades..

        1. Hi Mark
          I didn’t know they made a 4 stroke AG bike back then…interesting. Is it just a KL250 with a set of racks? How much different was it from the trail version? Pretty rare thing over here and I thought all their KV ag bike were 2 strokes. You need to do a blog. 🙂
          Cheers
          AGman

          1. Hi Agman –

            Yes, Kawasaki did actually design/produce an early 4 stroke farm bike back in 1980/1 – the KL250B1. Based on the 1980 KL250A3, it was marketed in Australia and South Africa.

            There are a number of differences to the KL, but generally they are one of the same. These early bikes are very rare, that even Kawasaki isn’t clear about them and from my research, make the Bantam Bushman look commonplace !

            I personally think they’re a great machine, but such Kawasakis didn’t really take off until the introduction of the 90’s Stockman/Sherpa/KLX.

            Currently I have five KL250 variants (1980-A3, 1981-A4, 1981-KL250B1 (first KV250 AGI farm bike), 1984-C2 and a 1987 KV250 (one of the last twinshocks)). I run the KL250 site on FB under – KAWASAKI KL250 OWNERS CLUB (1976-84). We are seriously ‘under-followed’ as even the early UK KL’s are few and far between, thanks to the overwhelming popularity of XL’s and TS’s back in the day.

            Swing on by sometime. A website/blog will follow at some point..

            Regards
            Mark

  19. Hey Agman,

    Great site! I love it when there’s such a wealth of specific info all in the one place. I’m fixing a newly purchased 99 Ag 200 for my neighbour who is a hard working young farmer. It seams I’m dealing with a franken-ag! It has a coil and stator and magneto (circular magnet thing) from a 6v bike (two separate coils) but I think a cdi from a 12v ( stamped 12v-10 287). I can’t figure if it’s the original motor with different electrics or an older motor (3gx-064152). The bike is definitely a 99 by the vin. All this googling is hurting my head and I hoping you can save me some pain.
    Keep up the great work.
    Alex

    1. Hi Alex
      Thanks for the comments. From memory, the only AG200s that had 3GX in the engine number was the first model. Does it have electric start? If not does it have the decompresser mechanism behind the kick starter and the exhaust rocker cover? If it has then its an old engine. What’s the voltages of the globes on the bike? This will tell you what the electrical system should be. I wouldn’t be too concerned about the part number on the CDI. They made a non-electric start AG200 next to the Electric start model and it was 6V and had the smaller front wheel just like the old bikes so you might have one of those…
      Let me know how you get on.
      Cheers
      AGman

      1. Hi Agman,

        yes it seams it is an old engine as you describe (decompression mechanism). It has a 6v globe (I think installed by the dealer) but the reg is putting out about 3v. Also it intermittently looses spark when warm. I suspect the reg and cdi are the original for the bike (12v) and thats causing both problems.

        Thanks for your help.
        Alex

        1. Hi Alex
          One other thing to check…does it have a 19″ or 21″ front rim? If its 19″ it may be one of the the non-electric start, 6V bikes. Even on these later bikes they dropped the decompression mech. from them so I’d say someone has put an old engine in your later frame. Check the wiring from the stator area and see if its been modified because the 6V wiring would not be interchangeable from the 12V wiring, different plugs etc.
          Cheers
          AGman

  20. It does have a 19″ front wheel… Also the plug cap is 5k ohm but the book calls for a 10k. I’m told that doesn’t cause a problem – is that your experience?
    Thanks again
    Alex

  21. hi AGman, I have a kick start only 200ag bike on the farm and it has worked great for 10 years I have had it but I am having trouble now starting it. Changed plug rebuilt carby , plug will spark maybe once out of 20 kicks. Hope you can help me with this so I don’t have to retire my workmate. Cheers Matt.

    1. Hi Matt
      Early 6V AG200s did have issues with the CDI units that usually ended up destroying the kick starter assembly and the clutch cover. My guess would be you have the same issue with yours. Your bike will be at that age where it will be getting tired, swing arm bushes, muffler, fork seals, oil use? Have a good think about spending money on it or whether that money would be better put towards a new one. They can be had new for $4500 or cheaper if you push!
      If you persevere, I’d be looking at CDI and the coil. Check all your connections between these components and from the stator connectors (wires out of the engine) as well. Pull them apart and clean them up and check for corrosion.
      Hope this helps.
      Cheers
      AGman

  22. G’day AGman.
    I’ve just bought an 85 AG200. While looking for information on these bikes I came across your site and was very impressed. Excellent work, I’m a new fan.
    I tried starting the bike today with no success. Checked plug and there’s good spark.
    Checked fuel line, no fuel flow. Checked fuel tap, it’s working back to front and there’s no fuel filter(taps operational and I’ll put an in-line filter in temporarily).
    I tried spraying some start-ya-bastard in the air cleaner and she ran for a second and died. I’m assuming she’s starving for fuel caused by a blocked carby due to not having a fuel filter.
    Tried to remove carb to clean out following your well set out procedures and came across a problem. I unscrew the choke cable and tried to remove the plunger but it wouldn’t come out. The plunger appears to be pushed completely down and won’t budge. Is there a trick to getting them out, or do you believe my one is stuck, and if so do you have any suggestions as to the next step.
    At the moment I just want to get the bike running to find out if these’s other issues to determine how much work I have to put into it. Any advise would be very appreciated.
    Regard,
    Ian.

    1. Hi Ian
      Thanks for the comments, much appreciated.
      As for the choke plunger, soak in CRC or equivalent and wait. I do it day after day; CRC and wiggle it and try and free it. Eventually they come out. Removing the carb will help you get better access perhaps. Remove the tank and disconnect the choke lever from the bars and thread it through the forks and frame so you can remove the carb with the plunger/cable still attached. If the choke plunger is seized then I recommend you do a whole carb strip-down as described. Being an ’85 you might have your work cut out getting that carb working happy again, I suspect it depends on how long its been sitting around with modern fuel in it. Best of luck and let us know how you go.
      Cheers
      AGman

  23. G’day AGman,
    I just stumbled onto this site whilst looking for some info on my AG200 ( yellow), (original?) . I don’t think I have ever come across a site with so much easy to follow information ! Fantastic mate ,, and I like your sense of humour too !
    My problem is with the engine stalling SUDDENLY every so often , (no missing or anything before it stalls) , and I’m suspecting it might have something to do with the diaphragm . What role exactly does the diaphragm play ?? It seems to stall during decelaration . It’s an old bike , but is in very good condition with only a couple of thousand k’s on the clock ,( I know the previous owner , a neighbour ) .
    Cheers , Mal.

    1. Hi Mal
      Thanks for the comments.
      If you have a look at the compliance plate on the head-stem, you should be able to see the year of manufacture. If its yellow its an early one and if its in good condition with minimal kms then its RARE!
      Basically, the diaphragm adjusts the height of the slide/needle assembly via the vacuum that the engine produces. This depends on RPM and load…very ingenious mechanical system actually, which works well when everything is in good condition. The carburettor section on this site has a good explanation of a CV carb operation if you need it, better than I could do anyway!
      Because of its age, I would pull the carb out and give it a good clean. Have a look at the diaphragm with some strong light behind it, this will show up any holes. Be aware that the early models had a lot of issue with their electrics, CDI in particular, so I would pull all the plastic connectors apart, remove the terminals and clean them. They don’t like any resistance build up.
      Give this a try and let me know how you go…
      Cheers
      AGman

      1. Thanks for the reply AGman ,,, when I get a chance to explore a bit further ( now that I’m three score years PLUS some more , I’ve come to discover that there are only FOUR days in every week ,not seven !! ) , I’ll let you know how I went . Thanks , Mal .

  24. Hi AGMan,

    First of all, a big thank you for all of the interesting and utterly helpful information on this legend of a bike. I bought an old secondhand 1989 AG 200 with about 73500Km on the clock, and this site has been instrumental in helping me get her going great again. Please keep up the excellent work!
    I would like to check the valve clearances on the engine, and I read in your reply to Jeremy that the clearances are 0.10 ~ 0.14mm for the intake an 0.16 ~ 0.20mm for exhaust. Is this correct for my year model as well? Just want to make sure before taking her apart. Any help will be highly appreciated

    1. Hi Matt

      73500km? Really? That’s huge for an AG. Thanks for the encouragement, much appreciated.

      Yep, the valve clearances are the same from the start to present day. Make sure the bike is cold when doing the adjustment.

      Good luck with the rest of the resto.

      Cheers
      AGman

      1. Thanks for the reply AGman. Yip, 73500Km and a bit more with only minor problems. Just goes to show how hard these bikes are with the right care and attention (and some new tyres haha).
        Thanks again for the information!

      2. Hi Agman, am restoring an old Ag200, wondering what the float level should be set at? Mono shock JYA3GXTOOKA 002143
        Any clues??

    1. Hi Jakub
      I tend to not give out my email, the best bet is to join the forum and post up a question or PM me on there. I’d like to get these sorts of questions over to the forum so everyone can benefit from the information.
      Cheers
      AGman

    1. Hi Jeremy
      It all depends on what you want to do with it I guess. Me? Ive never seen much point in the TW, for me it would be a choice between AG 200 or if I wanted a bit more capability Id go for the XT225 or DT175. If you just want something to muck around with and get it cheap I’d go AG200.
      Cheers
      AGman

  25. G’day agman
    Just reading your comments on 84 model, and in respect to the 83 compliance, I can confirm that they do exist – I have one. It still goes well and am in the process of tidying it up. It mainly requires cosmetic and wiring attention which your site/blog is/will be instrumental for me to tinker. Keep up the good work.
    Cheers

  26. Hi Agman,
    I’ve got a 1990 ag200 that seems to be having coil issues, as it starts sometimes then cuts out etc. do you know of any cheaper after market coils or do I have to look for a wrecked 1. New is $130.
    Cheers Lewis

    1. Hi Lewis
      There are a few guys on Ebay wrecking AG200s, I’d give them a try first. You could try http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/ but by the time you pay the exchange rate and shipping you would probably be better with a wrecker…or even new.

      Cheers
      AGman

  27. Gday Agman, I have oil leaking from somewhere under the battery holder and behind the Kickstarter, has only started leaking since oil change, any idea where my problem is,Cheers Duff.

    1. Hi Justin
      My guess is you have over-filled your crankcase and the overflow hose (from the the top of the engine to the airbox) is blowing oil into the airbox. The airbox has a drain at the bottom which is behind the battery.
      Check your oil level and let us know how you go.
      Cheers
      AGman

  28. Do you know were I can source a muffler for my ag 200 elec start? Have just learnt to use the internet love the blog.

    1. Hi Andrew
      Mufflers are a tough one…You can keep an eye on ebay for one of the after-market ones, they aren’t real flash but they are better than nothing.
      Cheers
      AGman

  29. hi ag man. I’ve just converted my 95 200 ag to an 84 200 ag as the vin number and the plate are on these as I intend on getting it regoed and now I can even get it club reg. I’m just wondering if you know were I can get the decals for the bike thanks peter. great post.

    1. Hi Peter
      Great idea! Good to see someone has done it! So was your ’95 electric start/12V? Any problems with the conversion?
      As for the decals, all I can suggest is keep an eye on eBay/Gumtree. I have seen them pop up occasionally but they are not cheap.
      Cheers
      AGman

      1. hi ag man.
        the 95 was a 6 volt kick start. thank you . I have aquired the decals and are now on the bike . chain guard do you require it for roadie. the conversion was a sunday . job . bits and pieces took time speedo . was the hard bit getting it working again. but almost there. cheers peter.

        1. Hi Peter
          My guess is that you would need the chain guard for a roadworthy, that’s my experience here in Vic anyway. They might be more lenient with club rego tho…
          Cheers
          AGman

          1. thanks mate its ok just fitted xt 200 chain guard . cheers keep up the good work ag man.

          2. if any one wants an 200 ag Yamaha frame 50 dollars and it yours 0432142164. cheers

  30. Gday just bought an ag 200 at a clearing sale for $550 im not sure what year it is can you help Jya3gx100RA020376 need to fix the failing spark when hot (cdi) any idea to source parts thanks

    1. Hi merf
      Any Yamaha dealer should be able to help you out with that VIN number…sorry I cant at the moment. Ebay or a country wrecker should be able to sort you out with parts.
      Cheers
      AGman

      1. Try murf….anywho sussed it out with google finally found a way to read the code its a 1994 but i have another question stator related any idea on the ohms output, my problem is either stator or cdi unit both are expensive but i need to eliminate one or the other so best to begin with the stator to check output and shorts resistance ect any help would be appreciated…..these two are $$$$ to replace so id like to isolate which is at fault the bikes only done 6000km so its worth the effort thanks murf

      2. gday, after much web surfing I found a site that indicated the year.. I have a 1994 make, I don’t know if my no spark issue is cdi or stator related, im going to test the stator have you any idea on the ohms output I should expect? both of these parts are very expensive so I need to isolate whats at fault, buying from the wreckers is risky I think I will only inherit the same issue, this bike has only 6000K it has been sitting a hayshed for the last 13 years so its near new in appearance and mechanical well worth fixing anywho can you help or anyone else out there? Thanks Murf

        1. Hi Murf
          One way you might be able to localise the fault is get yourself off to Jaycar or Altronics and buy a can of Freeze Spray. This stuff is used in the electronics industry to localise thermal related faults. What you need to do then is get your bike up to temperature to the point where it stops (due to the fault) and then try and localise which part is faulty by reducing the temperature of it with the spray. Try the ignition coil, CDI unit or the pickup unit which you really cant get to because its inside the stator cover. The manuals I have posted up are for the 12V electric start models, but I have recently got hold of the manual for the older 6V bikes. Try here and here for the electrical specs and I will scan the manual and try and get it up on here in the next few days.
          My guess it will be the CDI, fairly common from memory on the old, 6V bikes.
          Cheers
          AGman

          1. Thanks much appreciated im flying blind without the correct wiring diags i did use your posted manuals but never twigged with the 6v 12v difference, makes sense now why the wire colours never matched anywho i will sit tight and not pull anything apart just yet i can test the stator wiring from the plug ends once i have a read… i did pull off the cdi unit for a look with simple broken wire issues to no avail but now theres no spark at all…prior to that it was weak and intermittent whats that sound like? cdi related or stator

          2. The TW200 and the AG200 are very similar in engine/electrics. When a farmer has an issue with an AG he takes it off to a dealer and usually the problem doesn’t get documented outside of the dealer network. When a recreational TW owner has an issue he tends to have a crack at it himself. On the TW forums in the US (where the TW200 is quite popular), there are a lot of documented issues with the early TW CDI units where they have cracked them open and found broken/dry joints on the CDI printed circuit board. I don’t know 100%, but my guess is the early AG200 CDIs (which had a pretty high failure rate) might be the same, or be a similar design to the early TW200? I have never been able to get my hands on a failed AG200 CDI to check it out, most dealers replace them and throw them out so you don’t get the chance to check them out. My suspicion would be on the CDI unit.

          3. i had a look at those two links …handy but I need the wiring colouring guide to match the ohm tests which are included in the service manual “Electrical” chap 7 in the meantime I will check out the tw sites but my preference would be to nail the ag 200 1994 service manual, I don’t think the tw had a 1994 make, it only takes a small change in years for wiring to change from what ive gathered thanks again

          4. Hopefully I will have the manual done over the weekend.
            **Edit**
            Its up!

            Cheers
            AGman

      1. Check out my manuals post, that gives you a run-down on the years and changes over time.
        Cheers
        AGman

  31. Hi AGman,
    Love the site and great info! I recently bought a 98 electric start ag200 project. All seems to be there and fairly tidy apart from one issue i have yet to work out. It sparks fine on kickstart but no spark at all on electric start despite spinning quite normally. So all i can get from it is a few fires on the kick and then nothing. Any advise or suggestions would be appreciated.
    Martin

    1. Hi Martin
      That’s an interesting fault! First thing I would check is the coil, then the voltage getting to the coil. If the voltage to the coil is low then it is probably the CDI unit. It could be something as simple as corroded connectors between any of the major electrical components. Pull them all apart and clean them and measure their resistance when connected up. If they look corroded then this may be the problem.
      Cheers
      AGman

  32. Gday just a quick post back that im up and running after one new problem after another all to do with electrics so for all the restorers out there heres what i encountered from the get go.
    Hard to start with intermittent spark..then no spark at all after a quick ride once going,thanks to old mate with service manuals the stator was fine and the primary coil test was a fail..replaced coil after testing the second hand parts resistance before handing over $50 and sent the cdi away to be refurbished. Installed refurb cdi unit…still no spark murphys law strikes again so called geelong small coil rewire who redid my old cdi thinking they missed something the old fella asked what make and year then told me to disconnect the kill switch wire connectors he has seen that common issue before..well he was right. So im wondering if that was the issue from the start i wouldnt have thought to look at the kill switch connections anyway ive jerry rigged a kill switch for now until i can work out how the one on the handlebar comes apart i did try but i cant see whats holding it together without forcing things so for the moment im just enjoying the smooth comfy ride,kicks over first try such a pleasure to ride these old ag bikes

    1. Thanks for the update Murf. That knowledge will be handy for everyone I’m sure…something to look out for on the older AGs.
      Cheers
      AGman

      1. Ok just 2 more minor things to fix speedo cable seems easy enough but the run switch? Had a quick look and removed a few screws but the little sucker just wont prise apart easily i dont want to force it without knowing what makes it hang on. I want to get inside to clean the contacts to see if that resolves the run switch not working

        1. This is one thing I have no memory of! Not sure if I have pulled down any of the 6V electrics…cant remember doing any. My only advice would be compressed air, CRC/WD40, and plenty of patience.

          Cheers
          AGman

          1. Wd 40 did the job…still couldnt figure out how it came apart im not sure it does but after taking out the two screws there was enough room to give the insides a good spray i dont know why i didnt think to do that myself but theres days you get that…next new mission thats just happened ( why is it one thing after another with these ag bikes) gear lever spindle has worn that drops the lever way too low to change gears,but i have a plan in mind that will make you cringe..just a simple tack weld if the loctite on the spindle doesent hold on

          2. Just a quick question Murf, I don’t suppose your email address has anything to do with the area around Dookie in Vic does it?

  33. Well close enough to play footy against the dooks when we were in the picola northern league some of those ag college boys were pretty handy, we are in the southern league these days and im in the grandstand close to the bar where i belong….got you thinking now hey…try berrigan

  34. G’day Agman ,,, I contacted you some time back regarding my original (yellow) AG200 stalling suddenly ,,, because it was an intermittent problem and would sometimes go for a month without it happening , it’s taken a long time to narrow the problem down. Anyhow , by elimination , I’m fairly sure it’s the CDI unit . When I pulled on the orange lead , it would change the engine revs or make it stall . I tried to pull the unit apart to look for a loose connection , but with all of that silicon stuff over the circuitry , I’ve given up ( I actually severed two of the internal connections trying ) ! Anyhow , my question is : how much approx should I expect to pay for a new CDI ( the square unit which measures about 75mm x 100mm ? PS ; because I haven’t been on here for a fair while , I couldn’t “log in ” ,,,, has something changed with this ? Cheers , Mal .

    1. Hi Mal
      Sorry I cant be much help to you on the price of the CDI, I would hazard a guess that new, it will probably be more than the bikes worth…sad but true. Boats.net lists a CDI for an XT200 at $235 US – you could buy a wrecker for that! I can confirm from looking through my parts lists that the AG maintained the same part number of 12V-B5540-M0 through all the 6V models and the XT200 appears to have the same part number too. I would take a look around the wreckers or old country dealers and see if you can dig something up. Any 6V AG200 should have the part you need.

      As for the login…I have updated WordPress a couple of times – not sure if this has anything to do with it?

      Let me know how you get on.
      Cheers
      AGman

  35. Thanks AGman for your suggestion ,,, I did actually end up contacting Boats.net ,,, then found out with the shipping and exchange rate , it was going to cost nearly $450 ,,, so I persued another avenue through a dealer and discovered there’s actually a firm in Victoria who repair these sorts of parts ,,, so $290 later , I now am mobile again ,,, and hoping that the CDI was indeed the problem .
    My next question is : this particular bike is in near mint condition ,, ORIGINAL ,, apart from the new CDI ,, ( it came from a deceased estate ) ,,, would it be worth something as a “collectible ” ?
    Cheers , Mal .

    1. Hi Mal
      Something is only worth what someone will pay for it. I don’t think it is collectable because the AG200 is invisible. No one values them, particularly the farmers who bought them! Having said that, look what they pay for a mint CT90/110 these day – ludicrous! When I was a kid you could get a 6pack of these things for 100 bucks and to me, that’s all they are still worth…next to nothing! So the next question(s) is…what’s your general location, how many KMs is on the bike, and how much are you looking for it?!
      Cheers
      AGman

      1. I’m in the Hunter Valley of NSW ,, between Singleton and Muswellbrook ,,, the bike has aprox 2500 klm on it ,, and if it was worth something as a collectable , I would try it on ebay for a couple of grand .
        Cheers , Mal .

        1. Sounds like a plan.
          Plenty of guys are asking that for old clapped out Posties so I don’t see why you couldn’t try for the money. Good luck!
          Cheers
          AGman

  36. Hey there, just wondering if anyone knows what the biggest rear tyre I can get on my ag is? Have a pair of pirellis off another bike and the rear is 120-100 but it looks like it should just fit. Any advice would be great!

    1. Hi Fin
      120-100 might be getting a bit wide for the AG200. A lot depends on the brand and tyre type. If its a trail or multi-terrain tyre then you could be OK, but if its a full-on off road tyre like for motocross then it might get too close to the chain guard.
      The biggest motocross tyre I’ve used is 4.1 x 18 (old imperial sizes) which really didn’t suit the bike, the original 4.0 x 18 suited it better. If your tyres are motocross, they are bigger than this. I guess the only way you will know is to fit them.
      Cheers
      AGman

  37. Hello trying to restore a kv100 1981. Looking for the chrome/metal front fender and also a complete set of original indicators. She is already registered and on the road and in amazing condition…i just hate the aftermarket bits on her. And any idea how much these are worth now.

    1. Hi Debi
      Sorry, cant help you with info on the KV. Cool bike though…rode them around as a kid and loved them! All I can suggest is keep an eye on Ebay – sorry!
      Cheers
      AGman

  38. Hi Mr Agman
    I have an 82 Xt200 which is in bad nik and am trying to get it happening. I believe the
    ag motor will fit straight in.Is that correct and is it true that the only difference is with
    gearing and the gears start from n12345 and not 1n2345? I need and new cam,rockers,valves guides and possibly rebore. Recently got a price for a complete supposedly low k ag200 motor with header pipe and shocker for $1000.Shee#t. I am in SE melb so if i decide to rebuild where are pistons,cams available in my area.You are a Legend for putting this great site up.Hope you can help Thanks

    1. Hi Lee
      Your are correct, the gearbox has a different shifting pattern (5 up), I also suspect a different primary and gear ratios as well but am not 100% sure on that one. I’m not sure if a later AG200 with electric start will fit, but an older, pre-electric start AG200 engine should fit. I’d keep an eye out on Gumtree and Ebay for XT200 bits, they do come up every now and then and they usually aren’t too expensive (complete XT200 on Gumtree now for $750). Any Yamaha Dealer will get parts in for you…Frankston or Yamaha City seem to be OK.
      Cheers
      AGman

  39. Gday, only a matter of time before the front tyre got a flat ..so then it should be a simple task to undo one nut and gently tap the axle pin out but, its not that simple i can only budge the axle pin the thickness of the nut ive used plenty of wd 40,tapped it back n forth many many times,have removed the nut and used hardwood to drift it out but it wont budge any more im starting to damage the axle thread any ideas apart from what im doing i can freely spin the pin using a shifter at the other end nothing makes sense it just wont knock out any further

    1. Hi Murf
      Id say one of the wheel bearings has seized onto the axle. Unfortunately you will have to get brutal! You could try hitting it with a brass mallet if you want to protect the thread but I think to break the bearing free you will have really shock it depending how bad it is. You will probably find now that the opposite fork leg to where you are hitting from is taking the shock out of your hits, lay the bike over and make sure the leg is solid on a piece of wood or similar to ensure all the force you apply to the axle is transferred to the part that needs to break free. In this case, the axle and bearing(s). See how that goes.
      Cheers
      AGman

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