Website migration

Hi all, just thought I would give regular readers a heads up that I am shutting down this site. I’m letting the domain lapse and going back to my old WordPress site at

It will take a while to get it all looking good but the info and links to manuals etc. should all still be good.


AG200 parts suppliers.

I get asked a lot about where to get parts for the AG200. Everyone knows that Yamaha parts are expensive in Australia, but so is everything else right? Our strong, unionised workforce and accompanying high minimum wage is the price we pay right? You have to pay to play right? RIGHT?! Lets take a closer look…

OK, so the hard numbers first. A few posts back I did a write-up on a basic, top end rebuild and the parts that are required. As a service to my beloved readers (actually it was for a farmer who reached the “service interval” of his bike! 🙂 ) I went out and purchased these parts from my local Yamaha dealer.

1NU-11181-00       GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD 1  – $21.51

90430-14131          GASKET  – $14.10

93211-45471          O-RING  – $17.35

93210-57634             O-RING x 2  – $9.00 each

93210-72529           O-RING  – $14.30

5LB-11351-00         GASKET, CYLINDER – $8.05

93210-13361           O-RING  – $1.90

5H0-12119-00        SEAL, VALVE STEM x 2  – $6.60 each

93210-09165          AA5 O-RING – $2.60

4BE-15451-03        GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER 1  – $15.25

93210-14369          O-RING  – $4.50

93210-32172          O-RING  -$4.15

94580-41104          CHAIN (DID25SH 104L) – $77.70

4FM-1 2213-00      GASKET, TENSIONER CASE  – $1.30

15A-11603-00        PISTON RING SET (STD) – $71.70

93450-17044         CIRCLIP x 2  – $3.90

So the total for the above parts in Australia for a basic, top-end overhaul for an AG200 comes to $289.51. The same sixteen line items for a 2017 TW200 from Partshark in the US is $164.31US. So if you do the conversion at the time of writing, it comes to $216.89 in AU dollars and then you have to freight it out here. So if the freight is around $50 AU you can see that it pretty much doesn’t add up to get it from the US. I don’t think it is anyway.

Even back in the days not too long ago when the US and AU dollar was close to parity, I was noticing a disturbing trend from the few things I was getting from the US but particularly from a lot of my acquaintances and other Australians that I had contact with on forums. People were getting the wrong parts or even broken ones. Were unscrupulous US companies/parts guys using us as a dumping ground for all their crap parts and products? My experience was yes, yes they were. They knew we wouldn’t send them back, we are not value Nazis like the average US shopper and even if we were, we were not going to wear the freight to send it back over the pond anyway! I wonder how many second-rate or wrong bits ended up on Ebay over here because of this?

I lost interest in ordering a lot of parts direct from the US after noticing all this, while the strengthening of the US dollar and a price reduction on parts from Yamaha Australia helped to close the gap anyway. So my recommendation is to make sure you do the math before you go ordering stuff from the US, it’s not worth it any more in my opinion, not for one-off rebuild parts anyway. If you are going to buy a heap of one part then it may be a different story.

So what do I recommend for us Aussies? Shop around! A lot of dealers did not pass on the Yamaha price reductions from a few years ago so you might find a fair bit of variation for the sake of a few phone calls. Here’s one trick you can try; ask for a price on the good old NGK D8EA spark plug for the AG200. Who ever is cheapest for this simple part will usually be the cheapest for everything. Why? Because most (not all) dealers usually set a margin for their parts in their accounting software that covers all their stock (if they have a computer, I know dealers who still don’t!) so if they are cheapest on this easy to remember, common part then they usually are across their whole stock of bits.

What about after-market bits? The big one in my list above is the cam chain. A good quality DID or RK chain can be had for half the price of the one listed above. The rest…well I have always liked genuine Yamaha parts and as ridiculous as the prices are for for some of the o-rings listed here, not all rubbers are created equal. I get using generic, bearing shop o-rings (I still wont use them though) for the external, easy to replace parts like the rocker covers and top timing gear cover o-rings but the internal ones? Don’t do it unless you are a materials engineer who knows what heat and hydro carbons do to the materials you are going to use!

How about after-market gaskets? Same deal for me, I go with genuine but I’m sure there are good after-market options out there, you just have to troll forums and see what people are using and have had good results with. It is an area that I should look into more and try some variations.

So bottom line for me is shop local. I have been on the other side of the counter and it is a tough gig these days. With the pitiful margins on bikes and with the floor plans the manufacturers impose on their dealers, I wonder how they (particularly the smaller ones) survive. So help them out if you can, ask them for a discount – they can only say no and you may be helping them keep their doors open for your future convenience!



Electrical Theory…

Electricals on bikes, everyone hates them right? Why? There is a perception that it’s difficult to understand and is some sort of black magic. It would be easy for me to sit back here and say it’s all basic stuff with the AG200. The problem is I have been immersed in electronics and technology all my working life – nearly thirty years!  So what I find relatively straightforward others may have trouble getting their head around. I get it.

Problem is geeks and nerds (I class myself a geek, don’t know if I qualify as a nerd!) usually have a bad reputation for trying to explain concepts that they understand so I’m going to palm this one off! Down below are some links to some old Yamaha Training info that I had lying around. This is some entry level stuff that hopefully will give you a basic understanding of how electrics work on most bikes.

Electrical Charging Systems

Ignition systems

CDI systems

Electrical Systems 1

Electrical Systems 2

Electrical Systems 3

After reading all this you should have a better understanding of the electrics of your trusty steed.



A standard top-end rebuild kit.

Greetings for the new year folks, hope you all had a good festive break and the new year is a big one for you…even if we are 3 months into it already!

I thought we would start the year off with a bit of a tip for your basic AG200 overhaul. I say “basic” because there is really nothing too bad going on here. When I had a shed full of these things and old trade-ins and barn-finds seemed to follow me home weekly (daily?!), this was my standard engine overhaul kit that I used to keep in stock.

I found that the AG200s lasted somewhere between 15000 to 20000kms with zero maintenance. And 80% of the AGs I fixed that were from farms pretty much had zero maintenance. Oh, they might of had the free first service but after that – nothing. They would ride it until it self destructed! So what I have listed here is the standard top-end rebuild kit that you would have to put through the engine when it got to this point.

Now you might look at the list I have down below and say WTF! Why so many bits AGman? Well, you have to put things into context. It may be hard for someone coming from a different background to get their head around everything I have listed here, I get it. But we are not talking about an engine that has had periodic servicing done here…its had NOTHING for 20000km. And not normal 20000kms either. No airfilter cleaning, probably a clogged oil filter that at least has restricted oil flow. No cleaning so there is probably baked mud in the cylinder/head cooling fins…its a train wreck!

Here is the thing you need to remember most; anything rubber must be replaced. The biggest issue with leaving oil in an engine for this long is that it turns into an evil destructive sludge. If the inner cases look like they have been painted in varnish then the oil has been in for way too long and the chemicals that build up in it destroys rubber and I suspect doesn’t do a whole lot of good for gaskets either.

As for the parts themselves, you can get after-market gasket kits but I have never really liked them. I prefer the Yamaha originals. The timing chain can be sourced after-market, RK is a good brand. Everything else I would go with Yamaha. Lets have a look…

From this exploded view we will require part 6, 8, 13, and 2×17.










From this view we will need 2, 3 and 4









From below –  2×6 and 12.









From below – 2, 7 and 9.










From below – 7 and 11.









And finally, from below – 9 and maybe 2×11 (see text).










To sum up:

1NU-11181-00       GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD 1

90430-14131          GASKET

93211-45471          O-RING

93210-57634           O-RING x 2

93210-72529           O-RING

5LB-11351-00         GASKET, CYLINDER

93210-13361           O-RING

5H0-12119-00        SEAL, VALVE STEM x 2

93210-09165          AA5 O-RING

4BE-15451-03        GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER 1

93210-14369          O-RING

93210-32172          O-RING

94580-41104          CHAIN (DID25SH 104L)


15A-11603-00        PISTON RING SET (STD)

93450-17044         CIRCLIP x 2 (if you need to remove the piston to clean it)

There are assumptions and additions here; The two valve guide seals are needed because most AGs at this stage have been pretty fumy and there will be lots of carbon in the combustion chamber and the exhaust port. you really should pull the valves out to help with this clean-up and inspect the valve faces. I would strongly recommend a grind to clean up the faces – they will probably need it. So if the valves come out, you will need the valve guide seals.

I have covered mostly consumables here. There are lots of parts that need to be checked as well; are the cam chain tension guides going brittle? How does the cam look? Rockers? Valve clearance adjusting screws? Valves? Was the base gasket leaking? How do the cases look where they join up at the cylinder base?  Lots to cover in a later tutorial…

The rubber parts that go in between the cylinder/base and cylinder/head are critical. Re-use the old ones at your peril! Take a look at the three radial seals on the engine as well – counter-shaft, gearlever and kickstart. If one is weeping replace them all because they will be going hard and failing soon.

Don’t be tempted to replace the o-rings listed here with generic bearing shop stuff – all rubber is not created equal. These need to resist oil and elevated heat. Unless you know where to source these o-rings from, go with Yamaha.

Obviously the part number of the piston rings will depend on the oversize of your engine but I doubt anyone would bother boring an AG200 up to the next oversize. If the piston and cylinder is worn out on one of these bikes then the rest of it will be rubble! Check anyway, and while you are there measure, or get someone with the equipment to measure your piston and cylinder to see if they are within specs.

Hopefully I will be able to do a tutorial this year to show the fitment and little tips and tricks of putting all these bits together. Don’t hold your breath though! 🙂



AG200 corrosion points

Corrosion and the AG200 go hand in hand, it’s just part of the world that the bike plays in. Farms, particularly irrigated farms, will eventually cause issues with certain parts of the motorcycle. There isn’t much a farmer can do to stop surface rust under the paint on the frame, swingarm, and other larger parts on the bike, but there are certain fasteners that are particularly vulnerable and if protected can save real headaches down the track.

I don’t  blame the farmer for this one (did I just hear a collective “gasp!” from farmers around the country?), I blame the dealer. Yes that’s right, I said it – it’s the dealers fault! If they spent an extra half an hour during pre-assembly and delivery, it would save all sorts of hassles later on down the track for both the farmer and the dealer/mechanic that has to service the bike.

The dealer would say who cares if nuts and bolts and other parts seize up on bikes and are hard to remove, we just charge the time out to the customer. That’s a typical statement from a person who doesn’t have to work on the bikes! The thing the dealer doesn’t realise is that this sort of frustrating work on AG bikes is discouraging mechanics from staying in the industry. Most mechanics that I know who worked at country dealers hated it and never went back after they left.

This is why I don’t have much time for dealers who say they cant get good spanner men. If dealers made the job for mechanics a bit easier down the track then they might stick around. A mechanic doesn’t care if they can charge out all the time they spend repairing the bike, what they do care about is breaking and repairing every nut and bolt holding the footwells on a Yamaha ATV to get access to do a simple service to the auto drive.

AG200s are a bit more basic than ATVs but the issues are the same; if certain fasteners had anti-seize applied from new, then life would be so much easier down the track for simple maintenance jobs. So enough gas-bagging, what are the problem areas?

Front brake cable clamp bolt.

brake-cable-clampThis clamp is always a problem to remove if left to its own devices. Give it a twist and the head breaks off and you have to drill it out. Dis-similar metals don’t help either so a bit of anti-seize nips this one in the bud.



Front mudguard bolts.

front-mudguard-boltsThought I would chuck in some mud for effect! This is a no-brainer right? Anywhere that gets constant crud thrown at it is going to give problems after a while. Anti-seize on the four bolts and spray WD-40 or CRC under the guard to make the mud slip off.


Front mudflap nuts/bolts.

front-mudflap-boltsAs above, no rocket science involved here.




Exhaust header bolts.

exhaust-flange-boltsThis one you might need to be a bit more careful in removing if they look gumby. Be gentle if they feel tight to remove and use liberal amounts of your chosen release agent (WD-40 etc.), and move them in and out like tapping a thread. These fasteners get too hot for regular anti-seize, so a Nickel based product will be needed. Normal stuff will burn off but its probably better than nothing.

Exhaust guard bolts.

exhaust-guard-boltsThis is a tricky one. If the bike is old and it looks like the bolts have never been removed then it is probably best to leave them in place. They will break off the heads. If your bike is not too old then give them a go. Add a high temp product as above.


Rear mudguard bolts.

rear-mudguard-boltAs with the front guard, these bolts preferably need to be done from new. When removing them be careful and try and lube the threads from the rear. If they break you are in a world of pain because it is hard to get to them to either remove the stud or if you want to drill them out. Frame rails make it difficult to get to them. While you’re under the rear guard, don’t forget to do the two bolts at the rear that do extra time holding up the mud-flap.

Seat and rack bolts

seatrack-boltsThese are fasteners which you think may not give problems but they can catch you unaware because crud can get to them from behind – hit them with your goop!



Chain guard bolts.

chain-guard1We have multiple things to watch here and it’s probably chain-guard2the area that cops the biggest flogging in regards to constant exposure to the elements. All the fasteners in the following photos should garner your attention. Note in the pic showing the clamps on the rubber boot is an AG200 I’ve prepared earlier that demonstrates what happens when these bolts are neglected – they snap off! They then effect the integrity of the assembly they belong too.

chainguard4Sometimes I wonder if this is one of the reasons lots of chainguard3farmers toss the chain guard. It would only take a few of these fasteners to break to make people lose interest in putting it all back together after removing it to replace the chains and sprockets. If you keep anti-seize on all these bits it will make your life a lot happier when it comes time to do this job.

Swing-arm cover bolts.

swingarm-guardThis was a bit of a tough one to show in a simple photo ag200-swingarm-guardreally but next time you remove your wheel you will see a cover protecting the swingarm. This snapshot at right is from that cracker new manual I uploaded last week and it shows the guard better. Its probably a job for when you next do your swingarm bushes…much easier to do when the arm is out of the bike and on a bench, or at least when the wheel is out. Its held in by three bolts, two of which are dodgy self-tappers (the lower two), it’s probably best to leave those alone and just focus on the top bolt which is also the fastener for the shock pivot protective flap.

So that’s probably it. There are a lot of other areas that you could pay attention to like the bolts on the “bark buster” bars, footpeg mounts, rear brake adjuster, engine mounts, etc. But I reckon the ones I have listed here are the biggest trouble makers if you ignore them. Give the bike some love and it will repay it ten-fold.

And just a last word to the dealers…try looking after the mental health of your mechanics, give them input to the pre-delivery and maybe they will hang around a bit longer!



AG200L (’93) service manual

It seems a lot of folks out there are still getting the early, 6v AG200s back on the road. I have never really bothered with them much because the later ones have electric start, a much better 12V electrical system and other upgrades that make them the bleeding edge in AG200 technology(!).


Discrimination can be a nasty thing though…sooooooo as a service to my fellow AG200 fan-boys/girls, I have been on the lookout for an AG200L service manual pretty much from the time I started this blog. Well it’s happened and now all you 6V blowhards can stop hassling me! 🙂

I just spent a couple of hours scanning this manual and both my arms feel like they are about to drop off so I hope y’all appreciate this gesture from your kindly AG200 Guru. Yes, there are a few greasy fingerprints on the scan and a bit of bleed through of images on the reverse face of some pages, but hey…it’s FREE! Its not perfect but I think in a lot of cases it’s better than the other factory service manuals that I have listed on this site.

The real reason I wanted to get this manual up is so my mate in Poland who collates all my AG200 info into a CD and flogs it on Ebay, can complete his collection. You go buddy!

AG200L (’93/’94) service manual

This is how I spend my Saturday nights…I really need to get a life!  🙂



Front mudflap mod.

I know what you’re thinking (again); this guy is getting desperate if he is writing about a mudflap! You’re right, I am. Not desperate for things to write about (I have over 10 unfinished posts) but I don’t like posting without photos. Someone once said that they (the photos!) can say a thousand words…can’t remember who it was now…but anyway, I was going through some of my photos and I found these pics so I thought I could write something about that, so here we are.

mudflap curl2What is it about Ag bike mudflaps? You could go surfing on the silly looking things! They are huge and I bet the original designers were thinking mud right (duh!)? But I think the more important thing here is crap…yep, from a cow! I don’t think there is a more insidious and destructive thing on a farm (weeeell maybe DDT and Dieldrin come close!) than bovine effluent. Problem here is most farmers just leave it where it sticks! That’s OK, they use their bikes as a tool, nothing more. But we as the custodians and/or “discerning” users of the AG200 need to be aware of a few things that might help us with longevity, reliability and general cosmetics of the bike. Work on Ag bikes for a while and you will see that this crud effects everything if left, especially where it accumulates and sits for long periods.

Rubber, aluminium, steel, paintwork and even plastic doesn’t like it for mudflap curlvery long. So you can either wash your bike after every ride or you can do as much as you can to try and keep it off your equipment. I don’t know what the exact material used by Yamaha on the front mudflap is, but it’s not immune to damage from cow manure. I’m not 100% sure if it’s manure or heat from the exhaust pipe but the flap tends to curl up and therefore show a narrow path of protection for anything flicked up by the front tyre.

melted mudflapI have noticed in my travels that the bikes I see on dairy farms are the worst where there’s more crud than other farm types and its also common to see melt marks on the back of the flap from the exhaust pipe and/or being pulled in by the tyre. When they curl up bad you can see bad degradation of the rubber material. Another thing that could contribute is the use of highly caustic cleaners on a lot of farms these days. The actual cause is probably irrelevant if you keep your bike clean and the following mod will make the cause moot as well.

If your bike has been on a farm devoid of cattle then there is a good chance this mod will make limited difference, but for me you should still keep an eye on it because it can cause other issues. This mod can be useful no matter what you use your AG200 for. Take your mudflap off and go for a blast up a gravel road and listen for the stones hitting the underside of the engine and the frame rails, especially if you have a new tyre on and more especially again (can I say that?) if you have a nice sticky motocross tyre on, which you should because it’s insurance for an appalling front end!

A lot of crud can get caught up under the engine and stones can damage the paint on the frame rails, the AG200 has no bash plate and the ground clearance is low so the more you can block rubbish from the front wheel, the better your undercarriage will stay. So while I suggest to do this mod if you are just doing jobs around the farm, I suggest that if you have the curl issue and you use your AG200 for other functions to do it as well.

mudflap modEnough waffle…so what’s involved Mr. hot AG200 mods man (sorry, couldn’t help myself)? First thing…give it a wash will ya! Give it all a bit of a clean up so you can see what you’re doing. I also suggest you remove the flap assembly so its easier to work on. If the bike is in really bad shape the two fasteners holding the flap on will be corroded and they will break or you will have to cut them off. It’s probably a wise thing to replace these bolts with stainless ones if you ever get the opportunity, they cop a flogging. There also should be a plastic spacer (in the photos and item 5 in the parts list) that helps keep a bit of rigidity to the flap to stop it getting pulled back in by the tyre, make sure you don’t misplace it.

mudflap mod3Now you have all the bits apart, give it another good clean up so you aren’t working in crud! Take a look at the photos…pretty self explanatory I’d say, not rocket science at all is it? I used an Aluminium strip with a few M3 stainless screws and plenty of anti-seize. You could use anything you want to do the same thing but just try and keep it light – no 3mm RHS with 1″ bolts OK people?! If I was to do it again I would probably use a plastic strip actually, but anywho…

The whole point is to keep the flap at its wide, effective best as it came from mudflap mod2the factory. You might not think it makes much difference but I’m telling you from someone doing 70 to 80kmh up gravel roads with a sticky Dunlop motocross tyre on the front it made a lot of difference. It costs next to nothing to do so if the things I mention above are important to you then I suggest you give it a go.

So there you go, a big hot mod for your AG200! The elephant in the room here is that you could just buy a new mud flap but I wont go there. They only do the same thing eventually anyway so why not just mod the old flap and keep the cool old agbike patina to boot – nice! 😀



Clutch servicing.

I know what you’re thinking; why doesn’t this clown finish the timing chain replacement tutorial? I would if I could, but I have run out of good photos so I can’t finish it. I am in a life-limbo situation at the moment, to the point that I don’t own any bikes!(*gasp*) Yep, no AG200s – therefore no pics! Before I had a clean-up though, I did take some snaps of some other projects so I will move on to what I can until I get my AG mojo back! Yes, it will be back…

If you follow the comments closely, you will know that I think the AG200’s clutch is a weak point of the bike. I suspect Yamaha knew it too, that’s why they upgraded it on the TW, TTR & XT. Luckily the AGs gearing is pretty low so there isn’t much strain on it, but if you up the gearing or strap on a load you may feel the clutch struggle, especially if its already had its share of usage. It’s not hard to service or repair so lets take a look…

We probably should look at symptoms first. They’re pretty obvious; if you give your AG the berries and the revs rise and you don’t accelerate at the neck-snapping pace you are used too, then there’s a good chance your clutch needs looking at! Is the clutch cable and lever adjusted properly as per the manual? Look at that first. They are prone to shudder too, and gearing them up for a better road speed will amplify it if you didn’t notice beforehand.

What you have to remember with the AG is that there are five friction plates, four steel plates and four miserable springs holding the whole show together. Not a lot of surface area or spring tension when things get tough. So if it gets abused, heat builds up quickly and your steel plates warp. This is especially true if you have been riding it around for a while with the clutch slipping.

This tutorial is about servicing the standard clutch with factory Yamaha parts. They are relatively cheap, easy to get and will last OK in standard form if the bike is not flogged or ridden by a teenager (same thing really!) who thinks they’re Jeffrey Herlings! If you want to upgrade it then that’s a bit more difficult. Yes you can put better plates and springs in it from another model but you still have the limited amount of plates. I will cover a more serious upgrade in a future post.

So, what do we need for the job? That depends. If your clutch is slipping then you will at least need the five friction plates and springs. If you noticed shudder before slippage then replace the four metal plates as well. You can of course measure the warp of the four metal plates like they say in the manual but a bit of advice? Do the lot or you will have unsatisfactory results. Yes, it might not slip any more but shudder sucks…four metal plates dude…like I said it depends…on how tight you are!

Clutch exploded viewTake a good look at the parts breakdown posted here. There is a bit of a trap here for the unwary. The unwary parts guy I should add! Four of the friction plates are the same but you will notice that the third or “middle” friction plate is different. Make sure you get this plate, you will notice it has a different part number. I have seen casual parts guys just order five of the first friction plate labelled “8” which wont work. This middle friction plate is modified to accommodate the Boss Spring (19).

If you’re doing a budget repair then the friction plates and the four compression springs will get the whole thing working again. I strongly recommend you do the whole thing or you will be disappointed. Four of number 8, one of number 18, one of 19 and four of 9. Four pressure springs (11) will also be needed as well as a case gasket. I know it sounds like a lot but it responds well to all these parts and they are not that expensive from Yamaha. Get a price on a WR or YZ clutch rebuild while you are at the dealer if you want to make yourself feel better about it!

When you know the new parts are going in, it pays to let the new friction plates soak in the same oil as you use in the engine. Overnight is good. As always with engine related work, its a good excuse to do an oil change, especially if the clutch has been slipping as it would of been dumping the fibrous friction material into the oil. Remove the filter and the cover from the cases.

footpegWhen you have the oil out, there are a few bits we need to sort out before we can get the clutch cover off. Undo the two bolts holding the foot peg bracket. You can remove the top one and let the whole assembly swing down if you want. Once we have this bracket out of the way you can slide the rear brake lever off its shaft and out of the way. You will have to remove the return spring first to achieve this. If the rear brake light switch is still around you will need to disconnect this as well.

Once all this stuff is out of the way we can remove the kick starter.kick starter Add a kick starter shaft seal to your list of parts if it looks like it’s been weeping oil. Once the bolt has been removed from the kick starter, you can slide it off. If it’s a bit tight you can lightly tap a screwdriver into the split section of the spline to separate it and help it move.

case removeNow that everything is out of the way, we can remove the ten screws holding the case on to the engine proper. Take note of the different lengths and you may need a few gentle taps from a soft faced hammer to break an old gasket. Take note in the photo at left that the o’ring from the filter housing is still in place, it would be a good idea to remove this and keep it with the filter and cover to save it getting misplaced.

Now we can remove the cover, slowly pull it away from the engine remove coverkeeping an eye out for anything that drops out. What can drop out? Hopefully only the locating dowels! You are in trouble if anything else falls on the floor! front dowelIt’s probably a good a time as any to take a look at both gasket surfaces and clean them up with a gasket scraper. Note the locations of the dowels at the front and rear of the engine. Remove them if they will come out and stick them in the recesses in the cover once you have cleaned it up and put it aside.rear dowel

OK, now it’s time to have a look at the clutch. Undo the four 8mm bolts holding the compression springs in. Move across diagonally and remove spring removethem a bit at a time to spread the load across the pressure plate. Not really a critical process on the AG but it makes good practice if you ever work on more exotic stuff in the future.

Now that the compression springs are removed, it’s time toouter clutch2 release the pressure plate. Take a look at my pic at the right and keep an eye on two things; make sure the o’ring on the push-rod is OK, and watch the push-rod ball does not come out and get lost. If you’re paranoid clutch pushrod balllike me (watch for my upcoming blogs on bug-out preparation 🙂 ), use a magnetic screwdriver or other device to remove it and put it aside so it doesn’t get lost.

Now we can remove the plates. One should probably be careful here and keep the plates in order but what the hay, you’re replacing all of them right? Right?! If not, feel free to go and check the clutch section in the service manual. Three things are critical for normal operation; compression spring free length, friction plate thickness and steel plate warp limit. It’s all there in the manual which you can download here or you can buy your very own exclusive copy from eBay here! All that info in one place for 10 bucks, how did this Polish guy pull that off? What a legend! 🙂

Just out of interest, I thought I’d post up a photo of the springs out of the clutch springsbike I was working on at the time. This AG’s clutch was slipping in all gears and was useless. Check the difference between new and old springs. Not much difference eh? But it was a enough, together with under-spec friction plates to make the bike unusable. The AG200 clutch is a bit like my advice on the carburetor series I did a while back; cut corners in maintaining it at your own risk. Same with the clutch, if you cut corners by replacing one thing like the springs and you will soon have more issues and you will be pulling it apart again. But anyway, you get it…that’s enough on that issue.

install platesRight, back to the grind; the reassembly. Only a few things to watch out for here. Check out the manual or the exploded diagram above, it’s pretty straightforward. Friction plate in first, then a steel plate, another friction plate and another steel plate. The middle, friction plate install ballgoes in next, then the boss spring and another steel plate and so on until you have run out of plates to install and there is a friction plate looking at you ready to put the pressure plate back on.

install pressure plateBefore we can do that though, don’t forget about the push-rod ball. Once that’s located we can slide the push-rod on the pressure plate into place and line the plate with the spring posts and we are ready to install the new springs. I like to bring the tension up on the springs as evenly as I can in a cross pattern. A few turns on each spring and then move across to an apposing spring. The torque on the compression spring bolts is low at 6Nm, so don’t get heavy handed with them or you will break a post or strip out a thread – scrap one clutch!

arm adjustThe last thing we need to do before taking sunshine away from the clutch assembly is adjust it. The service manual explains it well but the rough and ready version is to take the slack up on the push-rod adjust pushrod(move the tip of the arm towards the front of the bike) and make sure the sharp end of the push arm assembly aligns with the post/mark cast into the engine case. If it doesn’t, loosen the 10mm nut in the middle of the clutch pressure plate and adjust the screw in the middle until it aligns. Nip up the lock nut when you’re done.

reasemblyNot far to go now folks! Grab the front and rear dowel pins and install them in the engine side of the cases. Install your gasket in the same place so it hangs on the dowels and you are ready to place the clutch cover case back on the engine. Keep an eye out for the earth wire and the starter motor cable locating tabs shown at left. The rest is pretty much the reverse of the disasembly. 8Nm on the engine case bolts, make sure your rear brake is adjusted when you put it back together and don’t forget to put some nice, fresh oil back in the cases!

That’s it, we are done. Now you can go out and at least be confidant that under standard conditions, your clutch will do the job. Keep Jeffrey Herlings off the thing though!



Owner/Operation manuals

I know, I know! These manuals can be downloaded from the Yamaha Australia site. It’s not the easiest thing to use though and is not the easiest thing to find either. So I thought what the hay, lets put them where all the other AG200 info is in the universe! Not only that, but it will be an interesting discussion on what was different in the manuals and therefore it may give you a hint on the changes Yamaha made to the bikes as well.

1983 AG200L – This is the bike that started it all folks. The first AG2001984_mc_ag200_m_mc2968 that came to Australia. There is some debate over the year of  ’83 or ’84 as the year of release. Yamaha used to introduce their new model range here a few months before Xmas. For example the “L” YZ motocross models were the ’84 year range but were actually released a month or two before the new year. My guess is the AG200 was the same, a few would of showed up here in late ’83 but most of them got off the boats in ’84. I haven’t seen a ’83 complied AG200 yet but I bet they are out there, or what’s left of them anyway!

1989 AG200W – So what happened between ’83 and ’89? Not much! Change 1989_mc_ag200_m_mc4131of colour was about it by the looks of it. This colour was probably the least liked of the AG200 range. The beige looked daggy real fast and made the seat look pink which was less than manly to the farmers involved at the time!

The manuals pretty much confirm the story as far as changes go. The ’89 manual is two pages longer than the older manual and there is a bit of info at the front making it quite clear that it is illegal to use the bike on public roads…say goodbye to the compliance plate of the old bike. In fact, on page 62 of the ’83 manual it states that the noise output is designed to meet ADR39 which is missing from the ’89 manual so Yamaha defiantly let ADR go on this model.

Starting to move into the nanny-state thinking here where there are more warnings about safety both for maintenance and riding. The fuel cock inspection and cleaning section is missing from the newer (p.33, ’83) bike manual which signifies Yamaha changing this part of the bike. The newer bike had no removable bowl under the fuel tap to catch rubbish.

I notice in the specifications section they take out the 30deg climbing ability in the new manual. Bit subjective was it Yamaha?! The engine is now a 3GX2 not a 3GX…wonder if anything was actually changed? The specifications format is changed around a bit but most of the info is still there and the newer manual has added a wiring diagram at the end. Nice touch.

1990 AG200A – The manual is an extra four pages long, 76 up from 72. Most of it is more brain-dead safety info in the first ten pages or so. Litigation must of been catching up with Yamaha! Not much else to report here except that the ’90 model is a better scan so download this one if your bike is around this era. Engine change in specs. to 3GX3.

1991 AG200B – First impressions are ‘meh’, same amount of pages, must be the same manual? Not so! All the safety rubbish is gone from the front. Cool…oh wait…its after the contents pages now! And they have added a ‘location of warning labels’ diagram…sigh!

This manual has the front fork oil change procedure removed from it so my guess is this is the year Yamaha removed the oil drain screw from the front forks. Strangely, the front headlight adjustment procedure has been removed as well. Engine specs. change again to 3GX4.

1992 AG200D – Same number of pages here again. Front cover is tarted up a bit. On page 41 (of the PDF doc) they have made a few additions to step 2c and 2g of the oil change procedure. Looks like the earlier manual forgot to tell people to put the filter back in! A few pages later they have actually added a tightening torque for the oil pressure check bolt –  7Nm which sounds a bit tight to me. I’d say they have added this because people are breaking them off.

On page 58 they are telling us to now lubricate brake lever pivot points with oil rather than grease. Why? I would always prefer grease than oil, particularly on an AG bike where oil will just get washed out after the first wet ride. The specs. section is all the same again except we have an upgrade to engine type 3GX5.

1993 AG200E – New manual is one page less. They have removed a page of safety label descriptions from the bike! Nothing else I can see except for the engine upgrade in the spec. section to a  3GX6.

1994 AG200F – Not much going on here. Page 46 gives us a change of info about the spark plug. They cut a heap of technical info out and add a little bit about how to install a spark plug with out a torque wrench. Nice work Yamaha. Once again we get an engine spec upgrade to 3GX7…keep rolling those big upgrades out guys!

1996 AG200FH – You get the feeling something is going to happen now! 1996_mc_ag200_m_mc5750-1They skipped a year and the manual has grown to 83 pages. Time for a colour update too, check it out! This is my preferred scheme of all the AG200s and the picture doesn’t do it justice.  Back to the manual…they dropped the imperial measurements from all the specifications throughout, which was a move forward. The description at the front of the manual has been simplified from 22 items to 15. I guess most people don’t need to know where the front fender, the tail-light and fuel tank is!

Interesting on p. 18 of the new manual that they drop the section telling you where the engine number is and tell you about the model label up on the head stem. On the previous page they want you to record the key ID, the VIN and the number on this model label rather than the engine number.

There are quite a few additions to the Periodic Maintenance section. A bit of butt covering at the start (in upper case I might add) with an addition about how maintenance can change depending on individual conditions etc. There is two additions to check in the Periodic Maintenance section; the kick stand and battery.

Here I was eagerly anticipating the introduction of the 3GX8 engine and they dumped it from the engine specs.! They dropped the minimum turning radius too. And the last big addition to report is the conversion table added to the last page.

There was a lot of little changes to this manual but most were irrelevant like extra cautions and stuff like that – lawyer changes!

1998 AG200FK – So this is the big one. Electric start! The manual is pretty 1997_mc_ag200f_m_mc6052much brand new so I wont go into the changes page by page. Its still a crappy old scan though! I will just look at the interesting specs. and other things. Now you might think that the picture at left is the same bike as in the last description but if you have a close look you will see the starter motor at the front of the engine and the larger front wheel and brake drum.

1999_mc_ag200_m_mc6619I do know that ’98 was not the first electric start bike though. I do think it was the first of the blue AG200s but the grey, electric start AG200 came along in ’86 – ’87. I had one so I know they came earlier than the blue bikes.

So what was new? The choke moved from the lower clutch side bar to up next to the ignition key. They still show the old choke in the manual under Controls/Instruments description. The switchgear is all new (they stuffed up the diagram), Electric start (no starter motor in the right or left view under description), 12V electrics with auxiliary plug up on the bars near the choke. Larger headlight, 21″ front wheel and larger front brake.

Because of all the changes there were a lot of new numbers in the specification section at the rear of the manual. Length was up to 2160mm from 2135mm, height was 1155mm, up from 1110mm. Seat height is up 10mm to 830mm, ground clearance up 10mm to 255mm, and weight up to 127kg from 121kg. Other changes occurred to caster angle and trail, obviously a 21″ front rim and an updated 12v electrical system capable of delivering reasonable current for a bike that may have accessories.

A few service things were new too. For the first time Yamaha recommended a 20w50 oil if you had temperatures to suit. I also noted that in the maintenance schedule that washing the oil filter was not even mentioned, you’re expected to replace it. And for the first time that I can remember, they tell us it’s OK to use the grease nipples on the swing-arm pivot!

2002 AG200FR – Here’s one for out Latin America friends! This manual is a biggie, 184 pages. Why so big? because there are two manuals, the first is English the second is Spanish. The English version has all the pictorial bugs mentioned in the ’89 manual fixed and it all seems good.

There is an added page for battery maintenance, the AG200 never had the best charging system and Yamaha are covering themselves again. There are two or three new pages going into more depth on changing globes, both headlight, tail-light and indicator. I find it funny that we are supposed to go back to grease for the stand pivots again! Finally there is an added piece in the specifications section warning against using car engine oils in the AG200’s wet clutch system.

2008 AG200FX(6v & 12V) – The AG200 was introduced around the same time as the first Apple Macintosh computer. So 24 years after the release of the system that revolutionised the the field of desktop publishing, Yamaha (or was it Yamaha Australia?) manages to get an AG200 manual out that is in a native digital format and not some dodgy scan! Way to go Yamaha!

We are back to 90 pages and it is soooo much better than this 1999_mc_ag200_m_mc6759other stuff that Yamaha Australia posts up for us to download. I couldn’t believe it when I saw all the imperial measurements. Yep they’re back! Its interesting because this manual also covers the 6v, non electric start model as well as the 12v version. They revived the old bike right down to the crusty old choke lever under the clutch side controls!

So all those spec. differences mentioned for the ’98 model  are all in this one! All in an easy to read, neat format. Nice.

2010 AG200FZ – Lucky last! This manual was a lot bigger than previous downloads and it shows. The quality is excellent.

First time for a very long time that Yamaha changed the introduction. Check out page 25, it the first time I’ve seen Yamaha mention the dual stands! Spark plug torque has gone up 1/2 a Nm to 18! Also a first…a decent index. Yamaha went out with a bang!

That’s it folks, that’s all Yamaha Australia have supplied anyway. I know there was an slightly updated model released in 2014, but Yamaha Australia haven’t posted up the user manual for that yet. When/if they do, I’ll post it up. If anyone out there can help me out with a link then I will get it up on here ASAP.